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THE JOURNAL

Top Ten Watch Movements

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1.ETA7001:
This movement is a summary of the traditional Swiss small-seconds layout. It is compact and refined. It is the preferred choice for manual-winding movements for many brands that do not produce their own in-house calibres. Since its design and manufacture in 1971, the 2660, 2691, 2801 that came before and after it have not had as much influence. This 17-jewel movement, measuring only 23.3MM x 2.5MM, has been adopted by numerous brands. Even Omega, which has vast resources for manual-winding movements, converted it into the CAL.651 to equip its products, and the German brand NOMOS has achieved great success with it. Its power reserve is 42 hours. Note: It previously belonged to the famous Peseux.

2.ETA6497: Originally the final general-purpose pocket watch movement from Unitas, it is quite large for a wristwatch, with a diameter of 36.6MM and a thickness of 4.5MM. Previously, apart from Tissot, which used it in bulk for pocket watches, other manufacturers largely ignored it. However, the trend for large watches allowed it to shine. Large means good, accurate, and stable. Despite having a 18000 amplitude, it can outperform many modern, smaller movements. The model from the same batch is 6498. The only difference is that the small seconds hand has been shifted by 90 degrees.

3.CELLINI 1602: Not much information is known about this movement, even among many enthusiasts, as people focus too much on the stunningly beautiful exterior of the Cellini, ignoring the heart inside. The data is as follows: diameter 20.8MM, thickness 2.3MM, frequency 21600 vibrations per hour. Its main plate features an adjustable balance system, allowing for precise adjustment of the balance wheel's amplitude. The regulation system removes the regulator index, relying instead on 2 micro-adjustment screws on the balance wheel. It features a single-layer beryllium-bronze alloy hairspring and is adjusted in 4 positions.

4.JLC CAL.822: This movement, which began production in 1992, is not large but features an almost oblong layout of 22.6 x 17.2. Thickness: 2.94. It is a representative manual-winding movement from modern JLC, fitted in the Reverso manual-winding series. It has spawned multi-functional products such as 823 and 824. Its brilliance lies in the micro-adjustment on the balance stud, controlled by '+' and '-' signs. The level of finishing is of a top-tier standard.

5.PP CAL.215: Since 1974, Patek Philippe has improved its manual-winding varieties. Drawing on experience from producing high-quality movements in the past, this representative base movement, measuring only 21.9MM x 2.55MM, was born. It has 18 jewels and a power reserve of 44 hours. It effortlessly earned the Geneva Seal, which others might never dream of. Most people marvel at its masterful craftsmanship, but overlook that its signature Patek Philippe gyromax balance wheel can be adjusted with great precision.

6.AP CAL.3090: Anyone who has seen the Cal. 3090 movement newly designed by Audemars Piguet in recent years, regardless of whether they have an artistic eye, will be attracted by its incredibly charming layout. I believe it is the most beautiful manual-winding movement in the world; the feeling is one of 'great form is beyond shape'. Every edge and every curve is perfectly proportioned—not a bit too much, not a bit too little. At this point, using technical terms to describe this work of art would be vulgar.

7.Piaget 9P: It is so famous and influential that one cannot help but repeat Mr Zhong's choice. If every movement manufacturer could design and produce such a thin yet stable product, would the quality of Swiss watches not be even more outstanding? 1958 open-line, with a thickness of only 2.15MM, yet it is far more impressive than many thicker movements. It has a power reserve of 38 hours.

8.GCAL.49: I believe the recent revival of German watches possesses a charm that automatic movements simply cannot replicate. The gold chatons, blued steel screws, the classic screw balance wheel, and the breathtaking swan-neck regulator are all showcased perfectly against the German-style finished 3/4 bridge. 9.Lemania 1873: Its most famous user is the Omega Speedmaster. Thanks to the appeal of the moon landing, the Speedmaster has become Omega's best-selling long-running collection. In Omega, it is known as CAL.1861. However, this manual-winding chronograph movement is also used by many other manufacturers such as B&M, Breitling, Chopard, Sinn, and Loran. In principle, it is more advanced than the manual ETA7760. Its dimensions are 27.5MM*6.87MM. 50 hours of power reserve.

10.CHOPARD LUC1. 98: Not many enthusiasts know that L.U.C is an abbreviation of Chopard's founder's name. This collection is truly outstanding. This 1 was born from the Chopard laboratory in 2000. 98, it features 44 jewels, 4 barrels providing 216 hours of power reserve, and combined with excellent finishing and a top-tier adjustment structure, it has elevated this small manufacture, which is capable of earning the Geneva Seal, to a new level.

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