Recreating the classic stainless steel wristwatch -- Patek Philippe Nautilus collection

For a watch manufacturer with a history spanning over one hundred and sixty years, a thirty-year journey is not considered particularly long. Nonetheless, Patek Philippe grandly celebrated the thirtieth anniversary of its Nautilus collection and comprehensively revamped it by launching a striking new masterpiece.

    "One of the most expensive timepieces in the world is made of stainless steel."

    Going back in time to 1976, a high-end wristwatch forged from stainless steel was released, causing a stir in the conservative Geneva watchmaking circle. With a width of 42 and a thickness of 7.6 millimetres, combined with an octagonal case shape that was neither round nor square, emulating a ship's porthole, its dazzling silhouette broke all design conventions and shocked the watchmaking world. At the time, luxury watches still emphasised slenderness and ultra-thin profiles, with precious metals prevailing as the mainstream case material, often paired with yellow gold bracelets, diamond-set bezels and hour markers to add a sense of prestige. Suddenly, this large steel wristwatch emerged, with a price tag even higher than many precious metal models of the era, and what was even more shocking was that the one daring to break the mould was none other than Patek Philippe, a top-tier brand deeply revered by the industry.

    Your second Patek Philippe

    Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern later confirmed that the decision to break away from the mainstream watch styles of the time was not a reckless gamble, but a carefully considered and extraordinary strategy. The prevailing social values were shifting; many affluent individuals, having achieved professional success, were increasingly engaging in leisure sports—sailing, skiing, and playing on the court. Precious metal models with delicate movements and cases prone to scratching were ill-suited to this new generation’s active, thrill-seeking lifestyle. With great foresight, Patek Philippe recognised this trend. The Nautilus 3700 watch, launched in 1976, was met with an enthusiastic response. It not only met the demand for a robust, durable stainless steel watch alongside prestigious gold timepieces but also attracted a vibrant new generation of clients. The Nautilus collection’s unconventional style became a symbol of a new era. The advertising slogan of the time, 'One of the world's costliest watches is made of steel', highlights the historical significance of the Nautilus collection even today.

Nautilus 5711/1A

    A new form pays tribute to a classic concept

    Patek Philippe launched six new Nautilus models at once, including the 38.4 mm mid-size model 5800/1A, the 43 mm large model 5711/1A, and the 5712/1A, 5712-R, and 5712-W power reserve moon phase display models crafted in stainless steel, rose gold, and white gold, as well as the 44 mm 5980/1A chronograph. The most unique design feature of the original Nautilus was its two-part case construction, where the case body and case back were integrated, cut from a single block of metal, allowing it to achieve an impressive water resistance of 120 metres at the time. Due to advancements in material technology and watchmaking, the new Nautilus models adopt a three-part construction consisting of a case back, case body, and bezel. This not only recreates the classic case of the Nautilus collection but also maintains excellent robustness and water resistance. It also allows all new models to be equipped with a transparent sapphire crystal case back, showcasing the exquisite in-house movement bearing the 'Geneva Seal'. However, Patek Philippe has retained the original two-part construction for the 5800/1A three-hand date series, paying tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus model. Furthermore, the new watches retain the original bezel design inspired by ship portholes, the reinforced hinges, and the lateral protective lugs. The bracelet has been slightly modified; the original straight design has been changed to a slightly arched effect that mirrors the curves of the bezel, adding further elegance to the new case.