A Feast of Time: A First Glance at Breguet's 2016 Baselworld Novelties

        Compared with previous years, this year'sBreguetseems to show some new changes this year. High complications, ladies' pieces, and high-jewellery timepieces continue to be steadily introduced. What is different, in my opinion, is that the proportion of women's models among this year's new releases has increased, alongside new developments and breakthroughs in high-end women's watches and complicated timepieces.

Breguet TRADITION 7038 Ladies' Watch

          The Breguet Tradition collection adds a new creation: the —— Tradition 7038 self-winding ladies' watch. Combining elegant style with exquisite technology, this watch features an ultra-modern graphic structural design where the intricate movement components on both sides of the mainplate are almost fully visible. For female enthusiasts who are passionate about haute horlogerie and eager to own a classic timepiece, this is undoubtedly a captivating choice.

 

        In terms of aesthetics, the dial of the Tradition 7038 ladies' watch is crafted from Tahitian mother-of-pearl and adorned with exquisite guilloché, clearly displaying the hours and minutes. A retrograde seconds hand is positioned at 10 o'clock, cleverly engraved onto the movement. Another distinctive feature of this timepiece is that the movement decoration has been meticulously designed for women. While Tradition collection models typically feature a matte NAC treatment, resulting in grey, anthracite, or rose gold-toned movements, Breguet has opted for a white frosted movement here, which harmonises beautifully with the 18K white gold case.

 

Breguet Classique HORA MUNDI 5727

         The Breguet Classique Hora Mundi is the first mechanical timepiece to feature an instantaneous time-zone jump system, complete with synchronised date, day/night, and city displays.

 

        Today, Breguet presents the Classique Hora Mundi 5727, offering a fresh interpretation of this timepiece collection. The dial of the 2016 model departs from the original globe design, featuring a silvered gold dial decorated with a hand-guilloché 'Clous de Paris' “ ” pattern. Between 3 and 4 o'clock, the 24-hour display is adorned with two different guilloché patterns: a flame motif on the upper half, engraved with the Breguet secret signature, and a wave motif on the lower half, which is engraved with the watch's individual number.

          The automatic mechanical movement powering this multifunctional timepiece is based on Calibre 777 and is equipped with a silicon escapement and an additional functional module. During the design of Calibre 777, Breguet filed four patents: the first for the watch's dual time-zone mechanism; the second for the design displaying the time in a selected time zone via the main hands; the third for the watch's reprogrammable mechanical memory wheel; and the fourth for the date display via a dragging hand.

 

Breguet CLASSIQUE 7147

         In the new Classique 7147 watch, Breguet reinterprets traditional decorative techniques, particularly its historically significant dial guilloché artistry. The new watch features a refined design with a full silvered gold guilloché dial, representing the pinnacle of guilloché craftsmanship. The main dial is decorated with a 'Clous de Paris' “ ” pattern, while the retrograde small seconds sub-dial at 5 o'clock is adorned with a wave motif.

 

          The Breguet Classique 7147 model is available in 18K rose gold or white gold, housing an ultra-thin automatic mechanical movement with an off-centre oscillating weight. The case measures 40 mm in diameter, and the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the intricate mechanical structure of the timepiece, including the Breguet balance spring and silicon escapement.

 

Breguet Classique 9088 Ladies' Moon Phase Watch

        Breguet Classique CollectionClassique 9088 Ladies'Moonphase watchElegant and timeless, forBreguet Ladies' WatchesAdding another brilliant chapter to the collection. The clean, pure lines highlight Breguet's 240 years of history, while the refined exteriorwatchunderpinned by exceptional quality.

 

        In fact, Breguet has launched two versions of its ladies' moon phase watch this year: the 9088 watch mentioned above, and the 9087 watch shown below.

        The Breguet Classique 9088 ladies' moon phase watch is powered by the Breguet 537L automatic mechanical movement, equipped with a silicon escapement and balance spring. Upholding the brand's tradition, Breguet uses advanced technology and expert watchmaking skills to craft exceptional timepieces for women. The sapphire crystal caseback allows for a clear view of the movement, which showcases the highest standards of traditional high watchmaking, featuring bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, and a gold oscillating weight adorned with a beautiful barleycorn guilloché pattern.

 

Breguet HÉRITAGE 5410 Big Date Watch

          This year, Breguet proudly introduces the new HÉRITAGE 5410 Big Date watch, incorporating a range of complications. A date display window is positioned at 12 o'clock, adding vitality to the refined silvered gold dial and perfectly complementing the elegant dual-arc shape of the case. The intricate guilloché pattern creates a rich sense of depth, making the watch's other functions clearer and easier to read.

 

           The new Breguet HÉRITAGE 5410 Big Date watch is powered by the Calibre 5166 movement, a testament to Breguet's years of innovation in materials technology. The silicon balance spring significantly enhances the timepiece's performance, ensuring precision and reliable durability.

 

        The Breguet HÉRITAGE 5410 Big Date watch is crafted in 18K rose gold or white gold, measuring 45 mm in height and 32 mm in width, and is available in both men's and ladies' versions.

 

 

Breguet Reine de Naples REINE DE NAPLES 9818 Mini Princess Watch

          The Breguet Reine de Naples collection, launched in 2002, exudes a soft and elegant femininity, paying tribute to the first watch ever created by master watchmaker Abraham-Louis • Breguet, commissioned by Caroline 1810 Murat, Queen of Naples, in • and delivered in 1812. This collection draws inspiration from historical descriptions of the original timepiece (production number 2638), maintaining its soft, oval-shaped design.

 

      This year, the Reine de Naples Princesse Mini 9818 reinterprets the legendary timepiece, introducing a white gold version to offer another splendid choice for women. The new model also incorporates other unique design elements, such as a bezel and lugs set with brilliant-cut diamonds. This model features a lavender mother-of-pearl dial, replacing the hemispherical dials crafted from white natural mother-of-pearl and Tahitian black mother-of-pearl in the rose gold and steel models respectively. The large hour markers are exquisitely designed, featuring hand-engraved white mother-of-pearl marquetry with its unique natural texture. Due to the delicate and fragile nature of mother-of-pearl, which requires exceptionally skilled gem-setting techniques, this new timepiece stands as a prime example of Breguet's extraordinary watchmaking expertise. A pear-cut diamond is set on the crown, adding a touch of brilliant radiance.

 

Breguet TYPE XXI 3817

        In 2016, Breguet introduced the new Type XXI 3817 chronograph. This model boasts a vintage character, demonstrating the rich heritage of the Type XX collection, whilst incorporating advanced, masterly watchmaking techniques to exude a modern style of the 21st century.

 

        The caseband is decorated with delicate fluting, and the screw-down crown ensures water resistance to 100 metres. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement, featuring the flyback chronograph function that has been a signature feature of the Type XX series chronographs since 1954.

 

Breguet High Jewellery Watch Collection HIGH JEWELLERY PERLES IMPÉRIALES

In        2016, Breguet paid tribute for the first time to Empress Joséphine, the first wife of Napoleon • Bonaparte, by meticulously crafting the High Jewellery Perles Impériales watch. Empress Joséphine was a passionate art lover and a loyal patron of Breguet, adding many treasures to the Bonaparte family's extensive collection of Breguet timepieces.

 

        This High Jewellery Perles Impériales watch features a more complex and sophisticated gem-setting technique, showcasing the Breguet jewellery masters' relentless pursuit of excellence. The bezel edge is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, complementing the oval case to fully express the feminine elegance of the Breguet ladies' collection. A row of dazzling diamonds is set beneath the bezel, subtly secured by a finely crafted gold wire base, further highlighting Breguet's ultimate pursuit of elegant aesthetics. A striking, large pearl is adorned at the 6 o'clock position, replacing the iconic spherical lug design of the High Jewellery and Reine de Naples collections, further enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal.

 

Breguet Tradition 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon

In        2015, drawing on years of deep research in acoustics, Breguet introduced the revolutionary Breguet Tradition 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon, accomplishing an unprecedented challenge: creating an exceptional chiming watch designed around a predetermined target tone.

 

          Just like the Classique La Musicale 7800, the new Tradition 7087 features an acoustic chamber inside the case, known as a “Helmholtz resonator”, which increases the volume of the minute repeater mechanism while filtering out mechanical noise. This can be glimpsed through eight small holes on the lower bezel surrounding the caseback. The chamber is constructed to generate the resonant frequency required to achieve the ideal sound quality. The chamber has a rectangular profile and runs around the entire movement, separated only by a thin membrane that isolates the movement from the outside air. Unlike the metallic glass membrane used in the 7800, the 7087 uses a gold membrane attached to the sapphire crystal caseback. Through the caseback, the intricate operation of the movement is fully visible.

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