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THE JOURNAL

Simplifying the Complex: A Brief Review of the Glashütte Original Chronograph Family Legend

Glashütte OriginalPublished
If you lived in Königsberg, Germany, in the second half of the 18th century, every afternoon at 15:30, you would see a handsome, neatly dressed man appear on the streets of the town, walking leisurely and thoughtfully towards the Friedrichsburg Fort. When he returned home, he would know precisely that it was now exactly 17:00 in the evening. This gentleman, whose life was as precise as a clock for decades, was none other than the great German philosopher Immanuel Kant. His landmark works were also in line with his lifestyle, mastering complexity with simplification and regulating appearance with rationality, ultimately achieving his immortal status in the history of philosophy.
        If you lived in Königsberg, Germany, in the second half of the 18th century, every afternoon at 15:30, you would see a handsome, neatly dressed man appear on the streets of the town, walking leisurely and thoughtfully towards the Friedrichsburg Fort. When he returned home, he would know precisely that it was now exactly 17:00 in the evening. This gentleman, whose life was as precise as a clock for decades, was none other than the great German philosopher Immanuel • Kant. His landmark works were also in line with his lifestyle, mastering complexity with simplification and regulating appearance with rationality, ultimately achieving his immortal status in the history of philosophy.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

        From Kant, we can clearly feel the classic style of German culture: simple, unpretentious, rigorous, and meticulous. Looking at the brilliant stars in the fields of thought, culture, and craftsmanship throughout German history, one will find striking similarities. From the concept of time to the rules of conduct, the blood of the Germanic people naturally flows with an unremitting pursuit of precise rationality and the profound wisdom of simplifying the complex. When faced with complex things, they can always clear the fog, discover the essence, and solve problems fundamentally with the simplest and most direct methods. In the field of chronograph design, which emphasises precision and practicality, Germans have achieved great accomplishments that cannot be underestimated, relying on the excellent concept of “ mastering precision with simplicity ”.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

 

        As a representative of top-tier German watchmaking craftsmanship,Glashütte OriginalIt has inherited the German cultural lineage of “ simplifying the complex and striving for perfection ”, thoroughly integrating it into every timepiece. As early as the Julius • Assmann watchmaking workshop period in 1890, the manual-winding pocket chronograph Goldene Herrentaschenuhr, numbered 21764, laid the foundation for Glashütte Original chronographs. With the passage of time and the development and progress of technology, the UROFA-era chronograph equipped with the 59 movement officially opened a new chapter for Glashütte Original chronographs in 1940. In 1949, the German Democratic Republic was founded. With the establishment of the national military, owning a chronograph watch that was precise and easy to wear became a necessity for pilots. Driven by history, the predecessor of Glashütte Original, the VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB), introduced the 64 movement in 1955 to better meet the needs of that era.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

 

        The year 2000 was a milestone year for Glashütte Original. Six years after transitioning from state ownership, Glashütte Original's first eccentric countdown watch was born, winning several international watchmaking awards. As the number one German watch of the year in 2001, the Pano eccentric series equipped with the 60 movement laid a solid foundation for Glashütte Original. In 2005, Glashütte Original launched its first automatic chronograph, the PanoMaticChrono. Equipped with the 95 automatic movement, it featured a patented intelligent automatic winding system for the first time, which could adjust the winding rate according to the watch's kinetic energy state, making the timekeeping more stable and precise. With unlimited design creativity and excellent watchmaking technology, the watch won the crown of German Watch of the Year in “ and 2005 ”. Subsequently, in 2007, the Glashütte Original Senator Double Split Chronograph, equipped with the manual-winding movement 99, was born. This split-seconds chronograph focused on the development of the “ stop-seconds mechanism ”, a pinnacle of watchmaking craftsmanship, becoming an enduring watchmaking classic.

Strolling Through History:   Years of Chronograph Time

64 movement — — Slim and light, moving with the heart

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       In 1949, the German Democratic Republic was founded. With the establishment of the national military, owning a precise and easy-to-wear chronograph became a necessity for pilots. Driven by this, Glashütte Original launched the 64 movement in 1955, which better met the needs of the era. This movement has a diameter of 28 millimetres, which is 6.00 millimetres smaller than the 59 movement produced between 1941 and 1945, making it thinner and more compact. Observing the masterpiece, the button at the 4 o'clock position conveniently starts and pauses the chronograph, while the top button is used for resetting the chronograph. It is also equipped with a 36-hour power reserve, which was very popular at the time. In addition, this movement can accumulate timing for 30 minutes, with a balance frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. By 1961, a total of 12,509 of these movements had been produced.

60 movement —— German off-centre design, creating a classic 

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       2000 was a milestone year for Glashütte Original. Six years after becoming independent from state ownership, Glashütte Original formed a strategic partnership with the Swatch Group. In the same year, the first Pano collection timepiece, the PanoRetroGraph, was born and went on to win numerous international awards in the watchmaking industry. Named as the number one watch of the year in Germany in 2001, the 60 movement powering this PanoRetroGraph laid a solid foundation for the Glashütte Original Pano collection. True to its name, “ Graph ” refers to “ chronograph ”, while “ Retro ” alludes to a creative element within the watch's 30-minute flyback chronograph: the countdown function. This was also the world's first mechanical chronograph featuring a countdown complication.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       As seen in the image, the chronograph subdial in the top-right of the dial features a distinctive and novel design, with three hidden hands running on separate tracks. Once the chronograph is started, these three hands appear sequentially, each timing for 10 minutes. It can run forwards as well as count backwards for up to 30 minutes. At the end of the designated time interval, a small hammer strikes two gongs as a reminder. Although this countdown function was omitted in the refined version of the 61 movement in 2002, it remains a uniquely striking feature within Glashütte Original's chronograph collection.

95 movement —— automatic chronograph, surpassing the master

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

        Following the turn of the 21 century, the Pano collection continued to forge classics. True to its spirit of continuous self-transcendence, Glashütte Original introduced its first automatic chronograph, the PanoMaticChrono, in 2005. With this first Saxon chronograph, Glashütte Original wrote another chapter of brilliance, winning the crown for Germany's Watch of the Year at the “2005 awards in category ”. This was the first timepiece where the dial aesthetics were designed before the movement was developed. The creative dial layout breaks away from the conventional off-centre arrangement; the hours and minutes subdial is positioned at the bottom, intersected above by the chronograph seconds subdial, while the left and right sides are interspersed with the small seconds subdial and the 30-minute chronograph subdial respectively. Interlinked and staggered, it is visually striking without appearing cluttered.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       The in-house 95 automatic movement utilises a patented stepped transmission mechanism, delivering a power reserve of up to 42 hours. The ingenuity of this automatic winding system lies in how the wearer's movements transmit energy differently between the rotor and the mainspring barrel through the automatic gear train. This integrated movement also features a flyback zero-reset chronograph function, allowing the intricate chronograph mechanism to be clearly observed through the sapphire crystal case back.

96 movement —— the beauty of complexity, the joy of counting

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       Inheriting the essence of the PanoMaticChrono, Glashütte Original introduced the PanoMaticCounter XL in 2010, built upon the foundation of the 95 movement and powered by the new 96 movement. It features the same dial design, the same chronograph functions, and the same 42-hour power reserve and flyback zero-reset. The dominant black dial colour also maintains Glashütte Original's restrained elegance. Notably, positioned at the nine o'clock position on the dial, opposite the classic Panorama Date, is an elegant and refined counter set within a red window. Through the display mechanism clearly managed by pushers at 9 o'clock and 8 o'clock, one can count from 1 to 99

       While this function may seem simple, it is a grand complication meticulously designed by Glashütte Original's R&D team, requiring 217 independent components. If you have not yet fully appreciated the joy of this complication, imagine this: how many matches you and your partner win in a ball game today, how many new words your child has learned, how many times you ran around the neighbourhood this evening, or how many underground stations you have travelled through within half an hour—use your imagination and join the adult game incorporating this counting function.

99 movement —— split-seconds and stop-seconds, a flyback heart

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       The Senator Rattrapante is one of the most spectacular expressions of Glashütte Original's watchmaking artistry, housing the Cal.99 manual-winding movement. Limited to 100 pieces worldwide, it made a striking debut at Baselworld in 2007. Honouring Glashütte Original's tradition in chronographs, this split-seconds watch focused its development on the pinnacle watchmaking craft of the “ stop-seconds mechanism ”

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       Featuring complications and operating at a frequency of 4 Hz, the Mikrokosmos has a thickness of 8.30 mm. Upon pressing the start pusher located at the 2 o'clock position, two slender hands begin to rotate. The lower hand indicates the point where time is paused. Pressing the pusher on the edge of the left case makes the upper red hand indicate the paused time interval before resynchronising with the main chronograph hand. An additional column wheel and a clamp control the split-seconds mechanism. The designers have also integrated a flyback function, creating an enduring watchmaking classic. Every movement must undergo meticulous finishing to ensure the highest quality on every single component, while the transparent case back offers an unobstructed view of the flawless movement in action.

Simplifying complexity, the new   leads the way

37 movement —— elegant and minimalist,   German character

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

 

       The supreme watchmaking artistry embodied by Glashütte Original began in Saxony in 1845. The manufacture is renowned for numerous exceptional high complications, including exquisitely designed chronographs. The new 37 chronograph movement is the first movement specifically conceived and manufactured by Glashütte Original for chronographs. The manufacture's design team seamlessly integrated a range of features: a central seconds display, 30-minute and 12-hour counters equipped with a flyback mechanism, a small seconds subdial with a power reserve indicator (70 hours), and Glashütte Original's acclaimed Panorama Date display.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       Combining all its features, the new 37 movement does not have a complex structure; compared to intricate designs, the 37 movement is as simple and compact as possible. The movement's column-wheel structure reduces the number of individual parts, achieving ultimate simplicity. The movement adopts a bidirectional automatic rotor, and the 70-hour power reserve is controlled by a single mainspring barrel. The balance wheel rim retains only four gold screws for adjustment. Furthermore, the 31.6 mm diameter and simple, basic design improve the stability of this movement and enhance its interference resistance, making the watch's performance increasingly excellent over time. Minimalist, elegant, and atmospheric, the new 37 chronograph movement perfectly embodies the distinct character of German “ minimalist expression and precision ”.

 

Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date

       The new Senator Chronograph Panorama Date perfectly showcases captivating watchmaking artistry, powered by the 37-01 calibre 4 Hz column-wheel chronograph movement entirely designed and handcrafted by the Glashütte Original manufactory. The new Senator collection timepiece highlights a minimalist yet elegant aesthetic through a classic, harmonious dial appearance: a magnificent silver dial featuring a black laser-engraved railway-track minute scale and Roman numerals. Before the gold dial is silver-plated and polished, it is engraved and filled with black; this technique, known as “ friction silvering ”, requires silver powder to be applied by hand to create a beautiful, durable and unique dial. This luxurious silver-dial watch features a polished and brushed platinum case with a sapphire set into the crown. Another launch model features a lacquered silver dial engraved with a black railway-track minute scale and black Roman numerals, paired with a polished 18K red gold brushed case.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       Looking closely at the intricate design of the dial, the chronograph subdial at the 12 o'clock position is elegant and refined, while the Panorama Date display with black numerals against an ivory-white background is centrally positioned in the lower half of the dial. At the 9 o'clock position is the small seconds subdial featuring a black and white power reserve indicator, and at the 3 o'clock position is the 30-minute counter. All the hands on the new watch are crafted from blued steel, echoing the slender and sophisticated bezel surrounding the dial. The start and stop functions of the chronograph are operated by the pusher on the upper right of the case, while the flyback mechanism is controlled by the pusher on the lower right. Pressing the flyback pusher stops the currently running chronograph and resets the chronograph's hours, minutes and seconds hands to zero. However, time measurement does not stop; a new timing cycle begins immediately upon releasing the flyback pusher.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       Through the sapphire crystal case back, the fine internal mechanics are fully revealed: the oscillating weight and chronograph bridge mounted on the Glashütte Original three-quarter plate, the brand's signature striped finish on the automatic bridge, blued screws, and the 21K gold skeletonised oscillating weight featuring the double-G logo, alongside a new oscillation system regulated by four gold screws. Such an exquisite panoramic view is perfectly presented to connoisseurs through the crystal glass.

Glashütte Original new Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

       The new Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is inspired by the 20 century 70s, an era when creativity and new ideas flourished in the field of design. It continues the typical obtuse-angled square stainless steel case design of the Seventies watches from the “20 century vintage collection ”, highlighting a rich retro flavour. Within the 40 millimetre case of the Seventies family, the medium size and simple basics improve the stability of the 37-02 chronograph movement. Observing the dial, the small seconds sub-dial at the 9 o'clock position features a black and white power reserve indicator, while the 3 o'clock position houses a 30-minute counter. Directly below the 12 o'clock position in the centre is a compact yet stylish hour counter, displaying Arabic numerals from 1 to 12, which complements the signature Glashütte Original Panorama Date display on the lower half of the dial.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       Unveiled at Baselworld 2014, the three timepiece dials come in ruthenium-plated, silver-plated and blue finishes respectively, exhibiting a subdued yet refined elegance. The blue version features a sunburst finish, with an elegant gradient spreading outwards from the centre. The ruthenium-plated and silver-plated dials each adopt matte and sunburst finishes, making for a breathtaking choice. The paired white gold hands feature Super-LumiNova luminescence on the hour and minute hands to enhance legibility. The dial is surrounded by a softly rounded square polished bezel and a brushed case, both crafted from stainless steel, accentuating the unique look and character of the Seventies collection.

化繁为简 格拉苏蒂原创计时码家族传奇简评

       
The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is available with a variety of straps: blue, grey and black Louisiana alligator leather straps paired with blue, ruthenium-plated and silver-plated dials respectively. All three models can also be fitted with a black rubber strap as well as a sporty stainless steel bracelet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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