THE JOURNAL
Endless Rivalry: Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin
Since the last century, Patek Philippe andVacheron ConstantinDuring their rivalry, their respective releases were exceptionally fine, and today we bring you the Patek Philippe 5098VSVacheron ConstantinObservatory.
That era
On 1872 11 12, Patek Philippe sent a pocket watch to Gondolo & Labouriau in Rio de Janeiro, marking the beginning of a long-standing business partnership. In 1902, this partnership reached its zenith when Patek Philippe created a bespoke watch collection for the Brazilian retailer. The Chronometro Gondolo collection was thus born. As the retailer, Gondolo & Labouriau also developed a novel sales strategy for the collection. At the time, a Chronometro Gondolo cost 790 Swiss francs, which was equivalent to nearly a year's wages for a skilled worker in Brazil. Consequently, Gondolo & Labouriau offered customers an attractive instalment plan, allowing payment over a maximum of 79 weeks at just 10 francs per week. Furthermore, Gondolo & Labouriau established an exclusive club for 180 members called the Plano do Club Patek Philippe System. At the time, such clubs were considered private associations and were not subject to regulations prohibiting public gambling. In reality, the Plano do Club Patek Philippe System operated a lottery-style activity, awarding one Chronometro Gondolo as a prize each week over a period of 79 consecutive weeks. The winner of the first week received a Chronometro Gondolo free of charge, while members who won in the subsequent 78 weeks were required to pay between 10 and 780 francs. The remaining 101 members were required to pay the full price.
Beating movement
Patek Philippe specially developed a new mechanical movement for the 5098P—the manual-winding 25-21 REC (REC stands for rectangular) movement. This was the first simple-shaped movement developed by Patek Philippe since the nineteen-thirties and forties of the twentieth century 20, including the 9-90 movement launched as early as nineteen thirty-four 1934, which remained in production for over thirty 30 years.
In terms of details, this movement follows a neatly organised design philosophy, echoing the striking appearance of the early 20th-century Chronometro Gondolo. The minute-wheel bridge is elegantly S-shaped, whilst the bridges for the escape wheel and fourth wheel are slimmer, making other parts of the movement more visible. Additionally, this timepiece incorporates Patek Philippe's proprietary Gyromax balance, adding a modern touch. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, offering exceptional precision and ease of adjustment.
A noble exterior paired with a precious movement is a match made in heaven. The Vacheron Constantin 1907 watch is fitted with a brand-new 2460SCC automatic mechanical movement bearing both the Geneva Hallmark and the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) certification. Designed and developed entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin, this movement strictly adheres to the twelve near-rigorous criteria of the Geneva Hallmark, with finishing that goes above and beyond. That is only the beginning; the movement is subsequently sent to the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) for 15 days of rigorous testing to evaluate its accuracy in various positions. Following this, each movement undergoes an independent 30-day test within the workshop to ensure it is flawless in both craftsmanship and precision.
Conclusion
The first Chronometro Gondolo watch was created around 1910, featuring square, rectangular, tonneau, and carré cambré (cambered square) styles. For this reason, all non-round Patek Philippe watches are collectively referred to as the Gondolo collection. In the latter half of the twenties, the global economy gradually deteriorated. In 1927, Patek Philippe sent the final Chronometro Gondolo to Rio de Janeiro. Today, 80 years later, the Chronometro Gondolo collection is beginning to reclaim its former glory.
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