THE JOURNAL
Battle of the Century: Patek Philippe 5098VS Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal
Vacheron ConstantinIn its history spanning more than 250 years, there have been many significant milestones. 1907 is undoubtedly a crucial marker in horological history, because in this yearVacheron Constantinintroduced the first Chronomètre Royal timepiece, becoming synonymous with prestige and reliability.
Keeping Pace with the Times
The tonneau shape is a classic watch case form in the watchmaking industry. However, the application of this shape has never been as masterful and reaching the absolute pinnacle of achievement as in Ref.5098. Slight modifications to the exterior design of 5098P, with the contours slightly refined and the profile subtly altered, make it more comfortable to wear. The crystal glass case back is also curved to match the contour of the wrist, with cutting-edge technology and specialised skills extensively utilised during manufacturing to successfully shape sapphire crystal—a material of extreme hardness—into a three-dimensional form.
The case is crafted entirely from platinum, possessing a highly attractive appearance that is not only balanced and symmetrical, but also provides perfect protection for the precious movement within. Like all platinum-cased watches from Patek Philippe, the new model features a single diamond set between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position, whilst the semi-matte black alligator strap with a platinum prong buckle draws inspiration from its historical creations.
1953 can be said to have turned an important page in the development of the Chronomètre Royal: Vacheron Constantin launched its first Chronomètre Royal wristwatch, with a yellow gold case design that followed the classic styling of earlier pocket watches. From then on, this watch has consistently adhered to the design principles of the first generation. This is precisely the case for this Chronomètre Royal 1907 watch introduced in 2007, which inherits the original spirit and traditional techniques of 1907 while reinterpreting the spirit of the original design in a fresh way.
The classic, austere yet elegant 18K pink gold case measures 39 millimetres in diameter, featuring a polished bezel paired with a round crown and slightly domed sapphire crystal glass. It offers a water resistance of up to 30 metres, while the transparent case back allows admirers to appreciate the exquisite decorative patterns on the new 2460SCC calibre developed by Vacheron Constantin. Although this watch is limited to just 100 pieces, it can still occasionally be seen at major auctions.
Exquisite Thought
The dial of the Patek Philippe 5098P, just like that of 1925, is worthy of trust—a small work of rhodiumed art featuring graceful, outward-extending curves. The centre of the dial and the area outside the elliptical railway minute track are meticulously hand-decorated with guilloché engraving. There are very few artisans left who have mastered this craft, and 5098P still perfectly embodies the essence of this art. The elliptical hour markers are positioned between the guilloché areas, whilst the scroll motifs at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions clearly reveal the identity of the watch. Two pear-shaped hands hovering over the dial are crafted from blackened gold, harmonising exceptionally well with the dial.
Vacheron Constantin1907 employs a slim bezel and a large dial. True to the original design, the outer perimeter of the dial features a minute track, with the words "Chronomètre Royal" printed above it just like the trademark registered back then, whilst the numeral "12" at the 12 o'clock position is rendered in dark red. The white enamel dial is fired at high temperatures using the grand feu technique; each dial is crafted entirely by hand following traditional processes with absolute flawlessness in every minute detail, making every single dial truly unique. It blends extraordinary aesthetic concepts with superb watchmaking craftsmanship, and currently only a handful of master artisans are capable of producing such stellar enamel results. Furthermore, the pear-shaped hands crafted from 18K pink gold are also among the key design elements of the first Chronomètre Royal.
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