THE JOURNAL
Introduction to the Cartier Vacuum-Sealed ID Two
Cartier's Carbon Crystal Astrotourbillon, limited to 50 pieces, is the first serial model derived from the ID One concept watch © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
To create a watch destined to change the future of mechanical watchmaking sounds like a distant dream, not a reality. However, three years ago,Cartierthe ID One proved to the world that an adjustment-free escapement was entirely possible. Recently, the Cartier Fine Watchmaking team, led by the distinguished watchmaker Carole Forestier-Kasapi, proved to the world that this unique technology can now be industrially produced for limited-edition watches.
Overview of the Cartier Vacuum-Sealed ID Two
Edouard Mignon, Head of Product and After-Sales for Watchmaking Innovation at Cartier, firmly believes that traditional watchmaking can also forge a new path © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
The number of components in the Astrotourbillon is strictly limited to within 50, combining the new technologies used during the development of ID One with the unique mechanical principles of the Astrotourbillon. Aside from the 47 mm niobium-titanium case (chosen specifically for ultimate shock resistance), this special model's movement also incorporates several new technologies from ID One. One of these is a component Cartier calls Carbon Crystal, more broadly known as a synthetic diamond-coated silicon component, realised with the aid of Diamaze technology (a slicing and machining process that combines diamond with silicon, editor's note). Cartier prefers to call this material Carbon Crystal (which it essentially is) to distinguish it from the sparkly stones the brand often uses to decorate watches and jewellery. Using this material to craft the tourbillon carriage, pallet lever, escape wheel, along with a tungsten carbide arbor, completely eliminates the need for lubrication and adjustment, employing a free-sprung escapement (where the oscillation system normally moves freely, maintaining contact only during the impulse and release phases)
ID Two, housed in a ceramic composite case with a diameter of 42mm, something even ID One did not possess © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
Three years after the launch of ID One, Cartier penned its next chapter, following up with a sequel based on the concepts of Innovation and Development (I and D). The main objective of this continuation was not necessarily to put the collection into continuous production, but rather to act as a tracking experiment for the new technologies involved in ID One.
Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Head of Watchmaking at Cartier, looks on with interest as Dr Frédéric Diologent, Head of Research and Development, conducts an experiment to verify the value of a vacuum environment © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
The most striking new feature of ID Two is its transparent case design, which the brand calls Ceramyst, truly reflecting the various technologies embedded within: such as the widespread use of ADLC amorphous diamond-like carbon coating on the movement (this black PVD-like application technique involves amorphous diamond-like carbon interacting with components), DIRE deep reactive-ion etching, and carbon crystal-coated silicon, thereby effectively eliminating friction when individual parts interact. Furthermore, the gear train transmission structure of ID Two has been redesigned, including a lubrication-free differential gear assembly composed of ultralight components.
In addition, the double barrels, a signature feature of Cartier's in-house movements, have been redesigned with an ADLC coating and incorporate an industry first: the mainspring is made of extremely finely cut glass microfibres (also known as fibreglass), which are sufficient to provide greater tension than traditional mainsprings, with a power reserve of up to 32 days. Furthermore, the adjustment-free escapement from ID One, DIRE-etched silicon, carbon crystal, and ADLC-coated titanium central arbor are all placed within a special environment inside the transparent case: a vacuum.
According to a study by Carole (known as the "Queen of Tourbillons", editor's note) and her leadership team, air resistance inside the case can generate a significant amount of friction, greatly depleting the power generated by the movement. In addition, a vacuum also prevents dust or moisture from entering the case: yet another two advantages.
The case back of ID Two's integrated Ceramyst case perfectly seals the vacuum environment within © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
What is all this for?
What is the point of all this effort, time, energy, and cost? Carole replies that in a traditional watch, an incredible 75% of the energy generated by the barrel system is actually wasted. By pumping the air out of the case and thereby eliminating resistance, this persistent problem is naturally resolved. In addition, the case back is secured without screws while still maintaining a seamless fit with the integrated case. Thanks to special gaskets and crown construction (with far fewer pores than traditional ones), the vacuum environment inside the watch can be maintained for up to ten years.
Carole and Edouard Mignon, Head of Product and After-Sales for Watchmaking Innovation, both stated that all these innovative initiatives serve one purpose: to improve the reliability and accuracy of the watch, thereby benefiting the end consumer.
Through a series of trial and error involving materials, coatings, optimised geometries, high-precision manufacturing processes, novel materials, internal case air pressure, and new solutions to old problems, Cartier has drawn a brand-new blueprint for the future of Haute Horlogerie.
The mainspring made of fibreglass provides a power reserve of up to 32 days © Worldtempus / Elizabeth Doerr
Having seen this, I recommend a popular Cartier watch to everyone. Those who want to know more can add WeChat to consult.
Cartier Ballon Bleu automatic mechanical watch W69012Z4
Review:
◆ The latest version of the Cartier Ballon Bleu W69012Z4, featuring mature replica craftsmanship, with several details refined in this latest edition.
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◆ The material and craftsmanship of the sapphire crown have been improved. All engravings on the case and bracelet are clearer, closely resembling the genuine article. The lustre of the blued steel hands at specific angles is also comparable to the original.
◆ The dial markings are more precise and carefully executed, representing a minor improvement and showing that the manufacturer has addressed consumer feedback.
◆ On the black chequered dial, the classic Roman numerals at the three and six o'clock positions have been replaced by small sub-dials for minutes and seconds, while the date window has been moved next to the nine o'clock marker. Standard chronograph pushers are positioned on either side of the sapphire crown, allowing you to master the passage of time with every press.
Conclusion: Cartier watches are known for their precision mechanics and exceptional quality, and their professional technology is loved by watch enthusiasts. The Cartier watch recommended to everyone is exquisitely crafted with guaranteed quality. Friends who wish to purchase can add WeChat to consult.
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