THE JOURNAL
What vintage elements do watches feature?
Regarding vintage styles in the watchmaking industry, we may see certain retro elements in classic replica watch models launched by various brands. These elements carry distinct characteristics of past eras and have been preserved, perfectly presented in modern timepieces to create a rich retro atmosphere.

Retro Element One: Breguet Numerals and Hands
For watches, Breguet's classic design elements embody the very essence of vintage charm. Features such as Breguet hands and numerals have long been widely used in the watchmaking world, becoming essential for classic timepieces.
For over two centuries, Breguet has continued to use the famous hands with open-tipped off-centre moon-shaped tips created by the brand's founder. Designed around 1783, this slender and elegant hand proved immensely popular upon its release. Simple and easy to read, Breguet hands are usually crafted from blued steel, sweeping gracefully across the dial to indicate the time clearly. The off-centre moon design highlights a romantic and intricate aesthetic, differing from ordinary open circles with a distinctive flair that remains a hallmark of many Breguet watches.
Retro Element Two: Railroad Minute Track
As we know, Cartier's classic Tank collection utilises the railroad minute track element. Alongside its signature square case, minimalist dial design, Roman numerals and blued-steel sword hands, the railroad minute track is an indispensable feature. Throughout decades of development, this legendary collection has continually expressed its brilliance in diverse ways, while the use of vintage elements ensures it exudes a unique character that remains timeless.
Retro Element Three: 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock Small Seconds
Many people may have noticed that a small seconds design at the 6 position is not uncommon and appears on various timepieces. However, some watches lack a genuine vintage character; for instance, chronographs typically place the small seconds at one of the 3, 6, or 9 positions to accommodate the central chronograph hand. Truly vintage-inspired small seconds at the 6 position are intended for time-only models rather than chronographs, where a dedicated small seconds subdial at the 6 position for a simple central hours and minutes display represents authentic vintage style.
Contemporary vintage-inspired watches show that small seconds most commonly appear in two positions: 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock, for reasons that are quite deliberate. During the pocket watch era, protective covers were often fitted externally to prevent crystal damage. Checking the time required opening the cover, and considering the optimal viewing angle, the 6 o'clock small seconds subdial was thought to be most suitable for the wearer. Later, as horology advanced and crystal materials became more robust, eliminating the need for protective covers, the layout shifted to place the small seconds subdial at the 9 o'clock position, similarly resulting from careful comparison and design.
Retro Element Four: 12 o'clock Crown
Which watch comes to mind when you think of a 12 o'clock crown? World of Watches editors immediately think of the TAG Heuer Magnetic Dual Tourbillon Chronograph, though we won't go into detail here—interested enthusiasts can look it up online. However, do you know what inspired the design of the 12 o'clock crown?
It originally stemmed from pocket watches. Pocket watches were typically kept in pockets, and regardless of which hand was used to retrieve the watch to check the time, the 12 position was the most convenient and suitable. At the time, the 12 crown position was designed purely for practical reasons.
Nowadays, most crowns we see are positioned at 3, which makes adjustment very convenient. Yet watches with a 12 crown still exist. With modern watchmaking technology highly advanced, people look beyond sheer practicality and demand unique visual appeal and individuality. Consequently, incorporating subtle vintage elements significantly enhances the aesthetic effect.
Today, this ancient design continues to endure. Adding these vintage elements gives the impression of stepping aboard a time machine and returning to the era when watch design first began.
Contemporary watches have matured significantly. Yet throughout the gradual history of watchmaking, style and elegance, nostalgia and freshness have continuously played out the enduring sentiments behind time.
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