THE JOURNAL
Things You Need to Know About Rolex
Rolexhas always been the most noble presence in the watchmaking world, holding a status that other timepieces struggle to rival. Today, we will explore whyRolex's status is so lofty?
Rolexsteel watch, stainless steel is also a precious metal
Although stainless steel has now become one of the most common and unremarkable materials in watchmaking, it still remains a premium material. Stainless steel was discovered in the mid-19 century by the Krupp company in Essen, Germany, and subsequently came into widespread public use in the 20s of the 50 century. As Rolex enthusiasts are well aware, the steel used by Rolex differs from the stainless steel used universally. The vast majority of steel watches use 316L steel, whereas Rolex uses 904L steel. Wherein lies the excellence of Rolex's steel?
RolexThe 904L stainless steel utilised is an ultra-corrosion-resistant stainless steel alloy. Currently, it is only applied in high-tech fields such as aerospace, chemical, and petrochemical industries, as well as in surgical implants. Its exceptional corrosion resistance rivals that of many precious metal materials due to its chromium content of up to 21%. After high polishing, its lustre is even more enduring. In fact, Rolex initially also used 316L steel, until 1988, when the first batch of Sea-Dweller watches (commonly known as the Deepsea) utilising 904L steel was released. Later on, Rolex fully mastered the processing methods for this steel, and from around 2003 onwards, Rolex adopted 904L steel exclusively. At this point, someone is bound to ask: since 904L steel is so superior, why does only Rolex use it?
Apart from being more expensive, the main reason is that this steel is exceptionally difficult to machine. The manufacturing process of 904L stainless steel demands rigorous precision. During the initial casting, the metal is remelted in a vacuum container to eliminate impurities in the mould that could impair corrosion resistance and cause issues during polishing. The quality of the cast is then verified by scanning under an electron microscope. Ultimately, only meticulously selected castings are used in watch manufacturing. To machine 904L steel, Rolex replaced almost all of its former metalworking equipment and tools. They were able to do this because Rolex produces in sufficient volume and manufactures all components in-house, whereas most other brands source parts from external suppliers. Consequently, although 904L steel performs far better than 316L steel, its higher cost, requirement for specialised machinery, and challenging machining process mean no other brand utilizes this steel.
RolexRefining their own gold
RolexAll yellow gold and platinum are produced in-house. Raw gold of 24K purity enters Rolex and is transformed into 18K yellow gold, white gold, Everose gold, and platinum. Inside the Rolex foundry, high-temperature furnaces melt and blend the alloys, which are then crafted into cases and bracelets as required. Because Rolex maintains full control over the production and processing of precious metals, it ensures not only strict quality assurance but also exceptional aesthetic beauty. As far as I know, Rolex is the only watch manufacture to operate its own foundry.
RolexSecurity comparable to a vault
RolexAttaches immense importance to security.RolexA series of meticulously detailed security protocols is implemented, with the subterranean levels reaching security measures reminiscent of 007 James Bond. At Rolex, watchmakers log into their assembly workstations using a fingerprint scanner ID system. Every component is scanned, catalogued, and stored. In fact, every Rolex movement features a unique serial number that is photographed and logged, paired with a case that also bears a unique serial number. Should the watch require servicing in the future, watchmakers can access its complete record. Accessing the Rolex vault requires passing through a bank-vault-style door secured by iris scanning. When Rolex parts are transported between facilities, unmarked, heavy-duty vehicles (which appear heavily armoured) are used. Security is paramount, largely because Rolex watches are as liquid and valuable as cash. For instance, a single bar of Everose gold in the Rolex foundry is worth around 100 ten thousand US dollars by weight, and there are countless bars stored there.
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