THE JOURNAL

How much do you know about German watchmaking?

News centrePublished 2014-04-21

When we talk about watches, the first country that comes to mind is Switzerland, to the point where it has evolved into the first question people ask when trying to determine if a watch is a good one: is it Swiss-made? If the world really only had Swiss-made watches, the industry would certainly not flourish. Even the brightest flowers need green leaves to accompany them, and sometimes, truly vibrant and bright green leaves can steal the spotlight from the flowers. Among the many green leaves in the watch world, German watchmaking is an exception; after all, the country has two brands, A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, which have clearly reached the level of flowers and do not appear inferior among a garden of blooms.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 series manual-winding mechanical watch 233.021

Why are German watches not as famous as Swiss watches?

Germany is the birthplace of modern horology, with the Nuremberg Egg historically recognised as the earliest pocket watch. Most people mistakenly believe that the “ Swiss-made ” label is the only certification for high-end timepieces. While it is undeniable that many of the world's best watches are produced in Switzerland, it is not the only country with an excellent horological record. In neighbouring Germany, the craft of fine engineering is deeply rooted, much like a family tradition. Germans are serious, highly focused on rules and discipline, extremely rigorous and earnest in everything they do, obsessed with mechanics, and renowned for their pragmatic approach to technical innovation.

There is a simple explanation for why the German watch industry is not as highly regarded as the Swiss one — — that is, Switzerland was a neutral country during both World Wars. While Germany invested all its resources into the two World Wars and converted its entire production base to heavy industry, Switzerland resolutely stayed out of it. When Allied bombers targeted German factories, the Swiss were working hard in their mountain cabins. By the time the German watch industry finally pulled itself together to start over, the Swiss were already two generations ahead. Even after World War II, the German watch industry was largely overlooked. The forced separation of East and West Germany meant that national infrastructure was severely damaged, hindering the restart of this creative endeavour. Moreover, German watchmakers seemed uninterested in marketing and promotion, hence their lack of fame.

Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph collection 39-34-03-22-04

Stylistic differences between German and Swiss watches

Compared to the design-focused nature of Swiss watches, the pragmatism and rigour of the Germanic people have carved out a unique path in watchmaking. Many people are unfamiliar with the German watch industry, but “ Made in Germany ” cars like Mercedes-Benz and BMW are world-renowned. In fact, German watches also consistently embody the spirit of “ Made in Germany ”, which is an important label for the quality assurance of German watches. The expertise of Germans in automotive mechanics is also vividly reflected in watches, which represent the essence of micro-mechanics.

German watch dials are generally clean, rarely using decorative patterns, and most German watches rarely use techniques like diamond setting or enamel. Among the German watches we are familiar with, only Glashütte Original has more enamel or diamond-set models. Secondly, from a visual perspective, the overall design of German watches is relatively robust and concise, with most case sides featuring straight lines. In contrast, Swiss and French watchmaking often use curved side designs, which appear much softer and more elegant. German watches only lacked a distinct style during the period between the end of World War II and the reunification of East and West Germany, when they produced large quantities of watches with curved, polished exteriors. Of course, this is due to political and historical reasons and should not be used as a reference.

Overall, German watches are also very distinctive; their watchmaking craftsmanship is filled with the soul of German rigour and pragmatism, and for this reason alone, we should respect them.