2016 Preview of Fine Timepieces from Baselworld

        The annual Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show is about to open in Switzerland, with major media outlets largely setting off for Basel. As the watch industry's grandest new product launch exhibition, it will set the overall tone for the watch market in 2016. The setbacks in the Asian watch market in 2015 may well continue this year, as hinted at during SIHH, though Baselworld should provide a more comprehensive picture. However, for watchmakers and jewellers, these conditions are not enough to prompt a total shift in their past marketing strategies; they continue to steadily unveil splendid timepieces. Ahead of the show, watch enthusiasts are naturally most focused on new releases. So, which captivating watches will grace this edition of Baselworld? Let us take a sneak peek.

Classic Chronographs

OMEGA Speedmaster Moonphase Chronograph

        In recent years, driven by the success of its Co-Axial movements, OMEGA has pushed hard in innovative design and movement R&D. The brand has introduced the acclaimed “ Dark Side of the Moon ” watch and the Master Chronometer certification system, alongside timepieces resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15000 gauss and the new Globemaster collection. Each of these achievements reflects OMEGA's passionate brand vitality. In 2016, OMEGA will release a new addition to the Speedmaster line that seamlessly combines moonphase and chronograph functions. Powered by the manufacture 9904 Co-Axial automatic movement, certified as a Master Chronometer, and anti-magnetic up to 15000 gauss, this timepiece deserves close attention for both its design and performance.

Eterna Super KonTiki Flyback Chronograph

        Many watch enthusiasts will be familiar with Eterna, though many others may never have heard of it. Once a celebrated movement and watch manufacturer of formidable strength, the brand was acquired in 2011 by a wholly owned subsidiary of China Haidian Group, though its manufacture remains in Switzerland. In 2015, Eterna introduced the Super KonTiki three-hand watch, which gained popularity thanks to its elegant cushion-shaped case, in-house movement (albeit sharing design cues with other calibres), and excellent functionality. Building on this in 2016, the brand launched the new-generation Super KonTiki Flyback Chronograph, powered by the in-house calibre 3916A. Featuring a column-wheel architecture and water resistance to 200 metres, it is an earnest chronograph timepiece.

German Elegance

        Germany's two most famous watch brands are neatly divided between SIHH and Baselworld, ensuring fine German watchmaking is well represented at both fairs. When it comes to Glashütte Original, it always evokes special thoughts—its eventful history, the ingenious inverted movement layout, precision world timers and perpetual calendars, and niche yet fascinating Meissen porcelain dials. For this year's preview, Glashütte Original presents a Senator Chronometer in blue. Retaining the clean, crisp aesthetic of the Senator collection, it features a power reserve indicator and panorama date, with a sandblasted dial finish in a deep blue tone—a timepiece well worth pondering.

Everyday Watches

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Automatic Watch

        Although still a young brand, Bell & Ross has attracted many loyal watch enthusiasts with its striking design. They adore the brand's square case shapes, large dial numerals, and military-inspired detailing. In 2016, Bell & Ross will introduce three watches featuring a distinctive colour scheme, comprising a chronograph, a three-hand model, and a quartz piece. All three timepieces utilise a single shade: — — desert grey. While khaki is commonly seen on many military watches, a desert grey quite like this is rather uncommon. Furthermore, the dial of this automatic watch adopts a structure akin to the Panerai sandwich style, featuring hollowed-out hour markers. Those with a penchant for military timepieces would do well to keep a close eye on this release.

Vaucher automatic movement bespoke watch

        Vaucher was once a highly renowned watch and movement manufacturer, achieving remarkable success particularly in the realm of automatic movements. After major brands gained the ability to independently develop their own automatic movements and ETA firmly monopolised the ébauche market, Vaucher's market share shrank, leading the company to craft movements for high-end clientele. Today, Vaucher is jointly owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation and Hermès, supplying automatic movements to numerous brands including Hermès and Richard Mille. However, since Vaucher resumed production in 2003, it had not manufactured any watches until 2016, when Vaucher unveiled a unique product line. Leveraging the group's internal dial, case, and component manufacturing companies, watches can now be tailored to individual client specifications.

Peter Speake-Marin serpentine calendar hand watch

        As an independent watchmaker brand, it has long been favoured in high-end watchmaking circles for its large pear-shaped hands and artistically inclined dial and case designs. In 2016, Speake-Marin previewed a nostalgic-themed timepiece, reflecting on early calendar watches he designed in the past, and specifically released this three-hand watch featuring a serpentine calendar hand. Rather than a complicated timepiece, it is remarkably straightforward. The case is crafted from relatively lightweight titanium and houses a Vaucher self-winding movement 3002, resulting in a decidedly elegant and refined watch.

Regulator

Chronoswiss floating dial regulator watch

        When discussing regulators, I imagine a few brands immediately spring to mind, Chronoswiss being chief among them. It is a pioneering brand that applied the regulator layout to modern timekeeping and propelled it to the forefront of trends; furthermore, it stands as a leading name in digital jumping hour watches. In 2016, Chronoswiss previewed a collection of regulator watches encompassing both red gold and steel materials, various dial and case coating finishes across a total of 6 watches, alongside a striking all-black regulator jumping hour watch. Unlike previous regulator timepieces, this time Chronoswiss has given the dial a suspended treatment, lending the time indication a more three-dimensional feel.

Tissot Le Locle regulator watch

        Le Locle has long been a staple product for Tissot. From the original design intent and positioning of the collection, it has always trended towards the classic, and reality has proven this to be a thoroughly successful line. The clean and generous design of the Tissot Le Locle is immensely popular, with the three-hand model striking a particular chord with consumers. This year, Tissot introduces a fresh twist to Le Locle, previewing a regulator watch with independent hour, minute, and second displays, whilst unconventionally positioning the date window at the 9 o'clock mark. For Le Locle, this represents a wonderfully fresh design direction, offering enthusiasts of the collection even more choices.

World time

        In recent years, world time watches have emerged as a rather popular watch category, with new iterations debuting almost annually. To date, multiple world time watches have already been unveiled at the SIHH and Baselworld previews. Breitling, one of Switzerland's few family-managed professional watchmakers and a brand with a distinct, independent style, will release a black steel Bentley world time watch in 2016. Utilising an in-house self-winding movement, its oscillating weight is styled after a Bentley wheel rim, imparting a strong sense of dynamism. The timepiece also features a chronograph function, making it quite feature-rich.

Ladies' selection

Blancpain Ladybird 60th anniversary watch

        The women's watch trend that swept through previous years has now become the norm. While numerous ladies' timepieces will undoubtedly appear this year, let us first take a glance at a new creation from the Blancpain high watchmaking workshops: — — Ladybird. This year marks the 60th anniversary of the birth of Ladybird. Launched in 1956, the small ladies' watch—namely the first-generation Ladybird—became a classic ladies' timepiece of its era. Thereafter, small round women's watches grew increasingly popular, particularly with the revival of the Art Deco movement in the 60s, cementing this style of watch as a benchmark for ladies' timepieces. This year, Blancpain reinterprets the petite charm and refined elegance of the modern ladies' watch using white gold, diamonds, and a tiny automatic movement measuring a mere 15.7 millimetres in diameter.

Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye Water Lily watch

        Amongst numerous women's watches, Girard-Perregaux's Cat's Eye collection is truly a “ captivating ” design. They say women possess an innate feline restlessness, and Girard-Perregaux has captured this feminine penchant for cats to perfection. The Cat's Eye watch boasts a distinctive design; its elliptical shape holds a unique charm, whilst the dial, fully paved with diamonds, resembles gently lapping ripples. Two water lilies composed of gemstones offer a novel touch, infusing the watch with a graceful feminine character.

Mystery watch

        Much like the complete overhaul of the Rolex Cellini collection in 2014, Rolex has once again released a very brief outline teaser of a new product. At present, nobody knows what kind of watch this might be, though the two concentric circles of luminescent markers divided across the dial hint at an entirely novel design. So, what sort of timepiece could this turn out to be? Feel free to leave a comment below and hazard a guess together.

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