THE JOURNAL
Why do watch movements use ruby bearings?
Within a watch movement, ruby bearings are a relatively important component used to reduce pivot friction. However, why do watch movements generally use ruby bearings? If you want to know the answer, read on as Ya provides a detailed explanation below.
Historical origins of watch movement rubies
18-century Britain was the cradle of high-quality clocks, with watchmakers using small grains of ruby (known as jewelling) for balance staff bearings. Nicolas Fatio, a Swiss optical instrument maker and astronomer, first created the ruby drilling technique and travelled to England hoping to obtain a "royal privilege" for this invention. However, the British claimed the technique was already in use, and ultimately he did not secure the privilege, though his technique was adopted by other craftsmen—and it was precisely this technique that allowed the British Empire to maintain its advantage in the watch industry. The turning point came with master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, who brought British watchmaking technology back to France. Since then, rubies have been commonly used in watches.
Reasons for using rubies in watch movements
1. Technical reasons
The setting of rubies in movements was initially based on technical reasons, as the operation of a mechanical watch movement relies on the continuous transmission of power through various gears. Before the vital function of rubies was understood, the pivots of the escape wheel, the pallet fork, the balance staff, and the wheels of the gear train were pivoted directly into holes within the brass plates. These holes featured small oil sinks where oil flowed in to lubricate the pivots. Over time, dust and other particles from the air entered, forming an abrasive substance that gradually wore away the softer brass of the plates and even the harder steel pivots. Watchmakers thus realised the need to find a material harder than brass that could withstand the wear of the pivots. This material was the ruby, a substance second only to diamond in hardness. Natural rubies are highly scarce, so synthetic versions are produced for use in watches.
2. Consumer demands
All products ultimately exist to satisfy consumption. In the eyes of consumers, timepieces featuring gemstones (even synthetic ones) enhance face value and prestige. Watchmakers quickly caught on to this business opportunity and began setting rubies into movements. Ruby bearings mainly fall into four categories: one is used as pivot holes, commonly known as jewel holes, which are set in specific parts to bring the wheel axle and the jewel hole into contact; another is used as cover plates, commonly known as endstones, which act like mechanical bearings to limit the vertical play of the pivots; yet another is the circular diamond used as a pallet jewel. Even in an ordinary manually wound mechanical watch, the number of jewels can range from a minimum of 14 to a maximum of 19, while automatic winding and complicated mechanical timepieces have even more.
Here, Ya recommends an N-factory replica Longines watch, which those who like it can take a look at.
[NOOB Perfect Edition] Longines Master Collection Star Moon Phase Watch L2.673.4.78.3

Top-tier craftsmanship, consistent with the original
Series:The Master Collection
Movement: replica ETA7751 movement
Strap: calfskin strap
Case: Stainless steel
Clasp: Folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire crystal glass
Review:
◆ Timeless and elegant aristocratic European style, highlighted by the moon phase display and chronograph functionality to showcase extraordinary charm.
◆ Longines' most popular model, the NOOB perfect version, crafted 1:1 with an appearance identical to the genuine watch.
◆ Silver polished "barleycorn" stamped dial with an elegant, fashionable design.
◆ The star and moon phase function operates identically to the genuine model, completing half a rotation every half month.
◆ Features a 30-metre water resistance depth, fundamentally fulfilling everyday water resistance needs.
Rubies undoubtedly enhance the overall quality of a watch, and high-quality watches certainly cannot do without them. However, a high quantity of rubies does not necessarily mean high quality, so everyone should avoid falling into this misconception.
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