THE JOURNAL
Bell & Ross introduces the BR01 Burning Skull "tattoo" watch

Why would a pilot's watch feature a skull? (Please do not assume it is exclusively for pirates upon seeing a skull.) No matter how one considers it, this combination feels rather unusual. Yet, Bell & Ross has used this aesthetic in watchmaking for years. The primary reason lies in the subtle connection between this look and the air force. These timepieces (the first released in 2009) originated as awards to honour legendary paratroopers from World War II, bearing an emblem featuring a skull inscribed with "Death from Above". The new Bell & Ross Burning Skull watch inherits the fine lineage of the older models, now featuring decorative engraved patterns on the case.

Bell & Ross AVIATION series automatic mechanical watch
Watch series: AVIATION series
Movement Type: automatic mechanical
Gender: Men's
Case Material: PVD-coated stainless steel
Strap material: Rubber strap
Case Diameter: 36 mm
Watch price: $372.68 USD
As mentioned above,Bell & Rossintroduced the BR01 skull model in 2009, followed by its second version, the "Airborne". Thus, the skull on the dial of the new Bell & Ross BR01 watch was entirely expected. By 2016, Bell & Ross presented us with 2 skull watches. The first was a unique piece, the BR01 Bronze Skull Tourbillon, which appeared at the Only Watch charity auction. The second was the serial-production BR01 Bronze Skull edition (limited to 500 pieces), sharing identical design styling and materials with the first, distinguished mainly by the absence of a tourbillon. At this point, some might be wondering about an obvious question: what is the meaning of the skull, and why is this particular motif featured on a pilot's watch? Is it merely a fashion trend? In fact, it is not; the presence of this motif stems from the deep historical connection between BR01 skull watches and military aviation. This skull motif first appeared during the D-Day Normandy landings on 6 6 1944, when paratroopers of the US 82th and 101th Airborne Divisions adopted it as an emotional talisman, representing the intimidation of enemies and the warding off of bad luck. The insignia featured a skull alongside the phrase "Death from Above", and elite soldiers took immense pride in wearing jump gear adorned with this design.
Even today, the classic Jolly Roger continues to feature on various military equipment, including uniforms, badges, and aircraft. Regardless of whether one appreciates a skull motif on a watch dial (where design choices typically reflect personal taste), the link between the military and this emblem is undeniable. This serves as the primary inspiration for the motif on the Bell & Ross BR01 Burning Skull "tattoo" watch. However, in military Jolly Roger emblems, crossed bones are usually placed beneath the skull. On the Bell & Ross BR01, the crossed bones are directly visible across the dial, with the 4 ends of the 2 crossed bones aligning with the 4 corners of the square dial, where they secure the 4 BR01 case screws. Finally, consider the military-style hands, which take the form of swords and daggers—traditional military motifs in 2. This watch, built entirely on military heritage, also serves as a stylish statement, successfully achieving two goals at once.

You are likely curious about the meaning of "Tattoo" in the watch's name. In truth, the "Tattoo" engraving forms the essence of this timepiece, etched directly onto the case. The skull itself is hardly the most unconventional element, as the remainder of the case is decorated in these flame-style patterns. Traditional engraved motifs surround the dial, with additional refined patterns scattered across the case.
Although the sandblasted stainless steel case achieves recessed pattern effects through machine engraving (as hand-engraving on steel is extremely difficult and costly), the black lines are executed using a technique inspired by tattooing. Each line engraved into the steel is filled entirely by hand using a special stylus loaded with black lacquer. Much like a tattoo artist decorating skin, the lacquer is set through multiple firings in an oven during the process. Once completed, the seamless integration of dark steel and glossy lacquer gives the case exceptional contrast and exquisite detail.
The remainder of the BR01 Burning Skull "tattoo" watch remains consistent with the original skull timepieces created by the Parisian brand. On the dial, a prominent 3D skull occupies almost the entire surface, composed of 2 layers: the base layer is a non-reflective black background, overlaid with a human skull crafted via metal stamping (using the same technique as coin minting).
The remainder of the BR01 Burning Skull "tattoo" watch remains consistent with the original skull timepieces created by the Parisian brand. On the dial, a prominent 3D skull occupies almost the entire surface, composed of 2 layers: the base layer is a non-reflective black background, overlaid with a human skull crafted via metal stamping (using the same technique as coin minting). The black area of the dial is coated with luminescent material, ensuring clear legibility at night. The case features the traditional BR01 square silhouette measuring 46mm*46mm, powered by an ETA-based automatic mechanical movement with hour and minute functions, fitted with a complete brown alligator strap (and supplied with an additional black fabric strap).
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