The Under-the-Radar Rules of Swiss Watch Competition

　　TraditionalSwiss watchesplaces great emphasis on orderly heritage; even when facing competitors, actions must be conducted in a courteous manner, and abrupt, indiscriminate behaviour is frowned upon by peers within the circle. Understanding this background helps explain why certain watchmakers that strictly adhere to tradition are viewed by people as behaving rather eccentrically.

　　To give a very simple example, driven by a booming collecting market, manufacturers have continually launched classical-looking doctor's watches over the years—to explain, doctor's watches generally fall into two categories. An older variety used long, prominent independent seconds hands to help medical staff measure a patient's pulse, while a more recent and mainstream type of doctor's watch is a chronograph featuring a rapid-measurement scale known as a pulsometer. Aside from the measurement conversion scale ring, the latter is technologically identical to a standard chronograph. Decades ago, when chronographs were still relatively rare, doctor's watches were not only expensive but typically used only by a small group of professionals like doctors, so it is hardly surprising that antique collectors today are so keen on them, making newly manufactured doctor's watches a natural offering. Yet even as doctor's watches sell better and better, involvement remains limited to a few renowned brands historically famed for making them, such as Patek Philippe and Omega. Newcomers like Longines quickly won buyer acclaim due to their illustrious history in chronographs. By contrast, Montblanc lacked heritage in this area, but through the involvement of movement specialist Minerva, they gradually helped people accept this 'new brand' behind an 'old face'.

　　It is not that other watch manufacturers eager to capture new markets lack the capability to print pulsometer scale rings on their dials; rather, a combination of peer pressure, professional reviews from opinion leaders among mature collectors, and traditional-minded dealers keeps doctor's watches scarce, naturally preventing them from flooding the market out of control. A similar situation occurs withBreitling Chronomat collectionfamous models such as Corum's Nautical Flag maritime watches and Movado's artistic Museum watches. Peers generally take care not to encroach upon them too much. Going a step further, within the Swiss watchmaking industry, different brands actually have their own 'boundaries'; although their territories frequently overlap, orderly hierarchy is an indisputable fact.

　　To give a few clear examples, technologically powerful brands like Rolex and Omega do not get involved in domains such as minute repeaters, while Patek Philippe pays little attention to the ever-popular tourbillon, only releasing a few simple tourbillon watches when emphasising the precision of their products. To many Swiss watchmakers, historical tradition seems to constitute a form of qualification; although modern production techniques mean manufacturing specialised watches is no longer overly complex, peers with a deep tradition in these fields clearly hold more qualification to develop them vigorously. Even if a brand wishes to enter a new field like this, it must find a clever entry point, trying not to compete head-on with established players entirely as a newcomer.

　　Of course, these qualifications have always been somewhat vague and unwritten conventions. Over time, the boundaries defining these qualifications might be unrecognisably altered. However, it is precisely this courteous form of peer competition that allows the Swiss watchmaking industry to maintain a landscape where numerous brands each wield their own strengths and occupy fixed territories, making Swiss watches all the more worthy of in-depth study and discussion by connoisseurs.