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THE JOURNAL

Secrets to Distinguishing Genuine from Replica Rolex Watches

Watch AuthenticationPublished

  Among all counterfeit Swiss watches, replicas of the Rolex brand are quite common. Beyond the fact that Rolex watches are well-known and valuable, their case backs are not easily opened; without a special dedicated case opener, you cannot see the movement. For the average layperson, even if you were to see the movement, you would likely not recognise it.

真假劳力士手表的分辨秘笈

The internal teeth of the Rolex winding stem tube

  In fact, some prestigious Swiss watches are very particular about their external markings and serial numbers, and incorporate many anti-counterfeiting measures. For example, Rolex has 5 numbers, which are: (1) case model, (2) watch production serial number, (3) movement number, (4) movement production serial number, and (5) bracelet number. Except for the bracelet number, which is visible on the clasp, the others are hidden and require removing the bracelet or opening the case back to be seen.

  Rolex watches also feature many markings, especially on newer models. Original Rolex model numbers were 5 digits; for example, the most popular men's three-hand automatic date watch in stainless steel + 18K gold was model 16233, while the same new model is 116233, with a 1 added to the front, making it a 6-digit number. The improvements in the new models mainly concern the bracelet structure, changing from the original hollow links to solid links, and the bracelet clasp is also different. Another change is that the production serial number is now engraved on the rehaut (the ring around the dial), and to date, no fake Rolex watch has been found that can successfully imitate this practice.

  In fact, Rolex has long implemented many technical anti-counterfeiting measures that often go unnoticed. For any Rolex produced in recent years, there is an extremely tiny Rolex crown logo etched onto the edge of the crystal at the 6 o'clock position. You need a magnifying glass to see it clearly; replica watches do not have this icon.

真假劳力士手表的分辨秘笈

Rolex watch bracelet links

  To determine if a watch is genuine, look at the most inconspicuous and hidden parts. The goal of making replica watches is to reap huge illegal profits, so they never put effort into details or materials, and this is the same for Rolex watches.

  There are two more ways to distinguish between genuine and replica.

  (1) To ensure water resistance, the exterior of all Rolex winding stem tubes features screw threads, and the interior is also threaded. Unlike ordinary watches, the Rolex winding stem tube is not press-fitted into the case using traditional interference fit techniques, but is screwed into the case. To screw it tightly into the case, there are teeth on the inner wall of the tube, which require a special tool to engage and tighten. When we pull the crown out completely and observe through the gap between the crown and the case with a magnifying glass, we can clearly see the teeth on the inner wall of the tube (see image); replicas do not have these.

  (2) The most common Rolex metal bracelets are the Oyster and the 50 Jubilee. For the most common 16233 type of Rolex watches, the craftsmanship of each link in the 18K gold bracelet is very special. Looking at the cross-section, it is thicker at the bend, meaning the thickness is not uniform. Replicas cannot replicate this process; therefore, on all such replica Rolex watches, the thickness of each gold bracelet link is identical. (See image) When inspecting, you need to fold the bracelet to a 90-degree angle to expose the folded corner of the link.    

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