THE JOURNAL
Do luxury watches require regular maintenance?
Do luxury watches still require regular maintenance? The answer is a definite yes.
Therefore, for luxury watches, the quality of maintenance will have a direct impact on their value.
First, let us discuss why luxury watches require regular maintenance based on their construction.
Step one: Watch sealing issues. Most luxury watches are marked as waterproof, such as 30M, 50M, 100M, etc. Some are also marked as non-waterproof. Due to structural requirements, some are waterproof and some are not; this does not mean that a non-waterproof watch is not a good watch. Many plastic watches on the market costing a few pounds are waterproof, but can they be considered luxury watches? Furthermore, even watches marked as waterproof are only tested for water resistance at the time of production; there is no guarantee they will remain waterproof for a lifetime without maintenance. For example, many customers who bought Piaget watches wore them while bathing; occasionally, they felt no water entered, but after a few times, they discovered water ingress. If the water is not dealt with promptly, it will start to rust over time. Customers then go to the shop to complain about product quality and demand a refund. On the other hand, no watch should be worn in a sauna or hot shower, because after the rubber gaskets contract due to cold, hot air enters the sealed chamber and cannot escape, causing fog. If this is not dealt with promptly, it leads to corrosion and rust; therefore, watches should only be worn under normal conditions. In fact, watch water resistance mainly relies on a few very small rubber rings. Over time, these rubber rings age and lose their elasticity, creating gaps that can lead to water and air ingress. Therefore, the sealing rubber rings must be replaced regularly to ensure the watch remains waterproof.

Step two: Mechanical operation issues. Luxury watches are generally mechanical watches, and mechanical watches rely on gears to operate. We see watches marked with a certain number of jewels; this does not mean the watch has that many diamonds, but rather indicates how many gear pivots are set in jewel bearings. Synthetic rubies are generally used as they are wear-resistant, so the more jewels a watch has, the longer its service life tends to be. However, watch gears cannot be made from materials as hard as diamonds; they must use steel for the pivots. The smaller and thinner the watch, the finer the pivots. With tens of thousands of rotations per day, they rely entirely on a tiny amount of oil within the jewel bearings to reduce wear. Once the oil dries up, the pivots suffer from dry friction, and after a few years, the life of the watch reaches its end. Although the oils used in luxury watches are of a very high grade, because the quantity is so small, they will inevitably evaporate after a few years. How long can a pivot as thin as a hair last under friction? Older watch structures were not as complex as modern ones and were built larger with thicker pivots, which is why some customers say their watches have been running for ten years without maintenance. Modern watches are made smaller and smaller and are dozens of times more expensive than before, so one should not lament that they are not as good as they used to be.

Step three, exterior maintenance. Luxury watches are generally made from karat gold, white karat gold, and high-grade animal leathers. Although karat gold is primarily composed of gold, the acidity of sweat from the human hand combined with atmospheric corrosion means that over time, it will lose its original lustre. This requires regular cleaning and polishing to keep the watch looking brand new. If it is white karat gold, the outer silver-white layer will wear away over time, exposing the gold underneath and making it appear less white; therefore, it also requires periodic re-plating to maintain its appearance. As for leather straps, it goes without saying that sweat corrosion will cause the leather to harden and crack prematurely. Normal maintenance should involve avoiding wearing leather straps during periods of heavy sweating or rain. If the watch features a stainless steel case and bracelet, regular polishing and refurbishment will better reflect its value.
Therefore, for luxury watches, the quality of maintenance will have a direct impact on their value.
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