An appreciation of Tudor diving watches

　　TudorTudor broke new ground in 1954, continuing its watchmaking legend. That year, the brand's first diving watch, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner (model 7922), was grandly launched. Adhering to the brand's philosophy, it reached high standards in durability, reliability, precision, and waterproof performance, while remaining affordably priced, quickly gaining favour among professionals. This original professional watch continued to evolve over the next 45 years to further meet the specific requirements of the brand's customers, especially various types of divers. Let us now delve into the wonders of Tudor diving watches.

　　Introduction to Tudor diving watches

　　The first generation of the Tudor Submariner was released in several versions, each with significant performance improvements. For example, the maximum functional diving depth was initially set at 100 metres, and by the time model 7924 was launched in 1958, it had increased to 200 metres. During this period, the brand conducted numerous tests to determine the characteristics an ideal diving watch should possess, refining its design. Consequently, each model in the 7900 series has its own unique features, and regardless of whether specific functions were retained during the product development process, all of this laid the foundation for the brand's legendary creations. In fact, the design principles and technical specifications of the Tudor Submariner were gradually established as early as the beginning of the 1960s, and the final model, 7928, featured easily recognisable crown guards.

　　The second historical era of the Tudor Submariner began in 1969 and lasted until the series' final appearance in the product catalogue in 1999. Although this model was based on the 7900 series, its development never ceased. From a technical perspective, an ETA automatic movement replaced the previous movement. Aesthetically, the Tudor Submariner appeared with a new look in 1969. To meet the precise needs of diving, this watch was not only equipped with a unique dial and square hour markers but also featured hands that collectors refer to as "Snowflake" hands. This watch remained in the product catalogue until 1981 years ago. In 1976, the brand introduced a smaller case version.

　　Introduction to the Tudor Submariners series

　　The Tudor Submariner was not only marketed to the mass market but also gained favour among key military personnel. The French Navy (MN), the United States Navy (USN) and other military organisations adopted this watch in succession, fully demonstrating its robustness and reliability.

　　First Generation: Tudor Submariners Collection 1954 to 1968

　　The first Tudor diving watch (reference 7922) was launched in 1954. Several years later, the Tudor Submariner with reference 7928 made its official debut in the brand's catalogue.

　　Meanwhile, Tudor strived to explore different technical solutions to improve the performance of this tool watch. Although the brand did not print promotional materials for the first-generation diving watch, this did not hinder sales; the related products were acclaimed immediately after their launch, particularly by the naval forces of several major countries.

　　Although the cases of references 7922, 7923, 7924 and 7925 all measure 37 mm and do not feature crown guards, each model displays different characteristics based on the brand's research results. Reference 7922 has a water resistance of 100 metres; reference 7923 is equipped with a manual-winding movement; reference 7924 has its water resistance increased to 200 metres; while reference 7925 possesses all the features of 7924, but its water resistance reaches only 100 metres. Reference 7928 is the final model in the 7900 collection, featuring crown guards that protect the winding crown, guaranteeing water resistance up to 200 metres, and equipped with an automatic movement. Most Submariners released by Tudor possessed the aforementioned characteristics, and reference 7928, released in the late 1990, brought together the experimental results of diving watches over many years.

　　TUDOR OYSTER SUBMARINER 7923

　　Reference 7923 is the only Tudor Submariner equipped with a manual-winding movement. The structure of this diving watch is particularly flat precisely because this technology was chosen. Its screw-down case back and crown, unique Oyster case design and domed crystal allow the Tudor Oyster Submariner watch to be waterproof to a depth of 100 metres.

　　Since this watch is no longer equipped with an automatic movement, the “ROTOR” and “SELF-WINDING” inscriptions previously engraved at the 6 o'clock position of the black lacquer dial have been changed to “SUBMARINER” and “SHOCK-RESISTING”. The dial does not indicate water resistance, and the hands have also been changed to a baton design, differing from the first-generation Submariner models.

　　Reference 7923 is equipped with the ETA 1182 manual-winding movement, with a vibration frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. The accompanying Oyster bracelet (reference 6636) features riveted links and the Rolex logo. In the example shown here, two straight bars replace the more common curved links, connecting the bracelet and the end pieces of the case.

　　Second Generation: TUDOR SUBMARINERS Collection 1969 to 1999

　　In the late 1960, multiple Submariner models released by Tudor were crafted based on the brand's finest diving watches of the time, with the features of each model fully revealed in the final model released, 7928. In fact, the 1969 catalogue featured two new models simultaneously—7016 and 7021—both of which were equipped with a new automatic movement and a new dial featuring distinctive square hour markers and hands known in collecting circles as “Snowflake”. Reference 7021 is the first Tudor Submariner watch to feature a date function. Subsequently, the brand launched another blue dial and bezel combination.

　　Different models were successively released in the mid-1970, among which a small diving watch—the Tudor Submariner Princess Date—made its first appearance in the catalogue. Over the following years, several smaller models such as the Tudor Submariner Prince Oysterdate, Prince Oysterdate Mini-Sub and Princess Oysterdate Lady-Sub were also launched successively.

　　During the final years of the Tudor Submariner collection, various models continued to incorporate multiple notable innovative elements, including a highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a fluted bidirectional bezel, and different dial and bezel designs. Overall, between 1969 and 1999, the Tudor Submariner collection launched more than 20 different models, with countless related versions, while each retained the core features of this collection.

　　TUDOR OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER 7016

　　The 1969 catalogue featured two new Tudor Submariner models—7016 and 7021—marking the beginning of the brand's second generation of diving watches. Reference 7016, introduced here and produced in 1969, contains many detailed features, among which the most striking are undoubtedly the dial and hands. This watch is paired with clear, oversized square hour markers, replacing the original rose logo with the shield symbolizing robustness and reliability. As for the hands known to collectors as “Snowflake”, they are combined with luminescent square designs to make time reading easier. This new dial is not only easy to identify but has also become a major hallmark of Tudor.

　　Another major change for model 7016 is the replacement of the existing 390 automatic movement with the ETA2483 calibre, both of which have a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. The lines of the watch continue the design of the previous generation, featuring a 39 mm Rolex case with a water resistance of 200 metres; it also includes circular crown guards, a Rolex screw-down crown, and a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale, graduated in 5-minute intervals, with the first 15 minutes marked in one-minute increments; the watch is also equipped with a Rolex Oyster bracelet with folding links. Furthermore, the Plexiglas crystal has been improved from a domed shape to a flat, thick, and prominent design.

　　Tudor Military Diving Watches

　　If a professional tool is adopted by relevant organisations and its utility is fully utilised in their primary activities, this is undoubtedly the best testimony to the quality of the tool. Over the years, the French Navy, the US Navy and other key military organisations around the world equipped their elite troops with the Tudor Submariner, receiving widespread praise and repeatedly confirming its quality and robustness, with its reputation growing ever greater. In fact, the Tudor diving watches used by military organisations were neither specially ordered nor purpose-developed. The models selected by these institutions could all be found in the catalogue. The only difference from the watches sold to the public lay in the engraving on the screw-down case back. For example, the Tudor Submariners used by the French Navy were engraved with the abbreviation “M.N.” and the last two digits of the year the watch was delivered.

　　Given that these watches were frequently used in extremely harsh environmental conditions over the years, watches that remain in well-preserved condition to this day are indeed very rare. It is precisely because these watches are relatively rare, coupled with their individual backstories and distinct global perspectives, that this collection of watches has consistently captured the attention of collectors and is exceptionally precious. The following content selects a number of military Tudor Submariner models for detailed elaboration.

　　Tudor Oyster Prince series Submariner Marine Nationale 9401

　　Navy divers often used parachute safety harnesses to make straps, and this model 9401, released in 1977, is a prime example. This material is highly elastic, very comfortable to wear and easy to adjust even when wearing a diving suit. The case back of this watch is engraved with the letters "M.N. 77".

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　　Tudor PELAGOS Series 25500TN Titanium Bracelet Watch

　　Review:

　　◆ Tudor further combines aesthetic design with exceptional technique, serving as a fine exemplar of retro chic style.

　　◆ Overall craftsmanship is executed to perfection, with details finished impeccably.

　　◆ The engraving fonts on the case back, the markings on the case back interior, and the execution of the slots feature true 1:1 workmanship.

　　◆ Measuring 42MM in diameter, this watch features a case and bracelet crafted from titanium for light and comfortable wear.

　　◆ The use of titanium material offers enhanced corrosion resistance and superior scratch resistance.

　　◆ A stainless steel screw-down crown enhances the water resistance of this model, making it a diver's watch of exceptional value.

　　Summary: Tudor watches blend exceptional precision performance with unique design, creating benchmark pieces that embody the highest realms of fine watchmaking art. The Tudor watches recommended here offer fine craftsmanship and guaranteed quality; interested buyers please contact via WeChat.

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