THE JOURNAL
Afraid of being misled when buying a watch? You won't have to worry after reading this.
Working principle of mechanical watches
The movement of a mechanical watch works on a basic principle: from the crown to the mainspring barrel. After winding the mainspring, the tension released by the mainspring drives the barrel to rotate. This rotation is then passed through a series of gears. It first turns the gear train, which includes the minute wheel (plus the hour wheel) and the second wheel, then moves to the escape wheel, the pallet fork, and finally the balance spring and balance wheel. This is how the power is transmitted within a mechanical watch, and it can be said that the basic structure of a replica watch is the same, with every mechanical watch consisting of these three fundamental systems.
These three systems are the power system, the transmission system, and the regulation system. To put it simply, the movement is like a tap, and the tap is the escapement regulation system, used to control the flow and speed of the energy.
Mechanical watches feature either automatic or manual winding. Perhaps many people do not have a clear concept of winding. Inside the mainspring barrel is a long, coiled metal spring. The principle of winding is based on the spring's own elasticity; when we deliberately coil it, it generates a force that wants to expand and return to its original state. As the spring is continuously coiled, the power reserve increases until it can no longer be coiled further—this is when the mainspring is fully wound.
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How is this stored energy released? This requires the escapement system, which consists of the balance wheel, hairspring, pallet fork, and escape wheel working in tandem. The stored power is released through the mainspring barrel, travels through the gear train to the second wheel, and then the second wheel engages with the escape wheel. The escape wheel then pulses, causing the pallet fork to swing left and right. The swinging of the pallet fork winds and unwinds the hairspring and rotates the balance wheel; the tightening and loosening of the hairspring regulates the oscillation of the balance wheel.
How to choose between automatic and manual?
Should you buy an automatic or manual winding watch? Theoretically, automatic winding is more advanced than manual winding because an automatic movement not only winds the watch but also keeps the mainspring in a semi-wound state, ensuring consistent torque output—this is the true function of automatic winding. However, if you do not wear it for a long time, you will still need to manually “activate” the watch's power.
Although automatic winding has many benefits, personally, I prefer manual winding as I find it more engaging. Just like driving, a manual car is more complex, but it feels more satisfying to drive than an automatic. Both have their pros and cons, so the choice ultimately depends on personal preference. Therefore, when buying a replica watch, do not be misled by sellers regarding mechanical watches.
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