Rolex: It is not that they haven't changed, it is just that most people don't see it

　　People often complain that:Rolex watchesthey have remained unchanged for so many years with no innovation. A single model can be sold for decades.

　　One must realise that only watches that have gained global consumer recognition can achieve this so-called 'conservatism'. If a watch is not recognised, it must either be 'discontinued' or have its appearance constantly modified to chase novelty for the sake of consumers.

　　Furthermore, while some say Rolex 'uses one trick for everything', it is not that Rolex hasn't changed; it is just that most people don't see it.

　　When we hold a Rolex watch head and let the metal bracelet hang horizontally, we notice the bracelet sags. The more frequently a Rolex is worn, the more severe the sagging becomes!

　　This occurs because the links are connected by screw pins, and there is a certain clearance between the screw pin and the link hole. Although lubricant is added to this gap, over long-term use, this clearance gradually increases, leading to the sagging of the bracelet, which is very unsightly.

　　To solve the problem of bracelet sagging, Rolex has added ceramic tubes to the links of its platinum and gold Oyster bracelets and Day-Date President bracelets. On one hand, this white ceramic tube reduces friction and wear between the screw pin and the link, improving wearing comfort.

　　On the other hand, new bracelets using ceramic tubes no longer require the addition of lubricant, completely avoiding the loss of lubricant during cleaning and preventing leakage that could stain the wearer's wrists or clothing.

　　The Oyster bracelet was introduced in the late 1930s, and the President bracelet was created specifically for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date launched in 1956. Modern bracelets look similar to those from decades ago. However, it is not that Rolex hasn't changed; it is just that most people do not see the details inside the links.

　　Currently, ceramic tubes are only applied to the links of platinum and gold Oyster bracelets and Day-Date President bracelets; they are not yet seen in steel models or even standard precious metal bracelets. Given Rolex's typical approach, this will likely be rolled out gradually in the future.

　　Rolex released its first in-house automatic mechanical chronograph movement, the Cal.4130, in 2000. From its inception, it utilised a vertical clutch structure, which significantly improved the jitter of the hands when the chronograph function was activated.

　　However, the existence of backlash between the gears still presents several drawbacks:

　　1. It generates inter-tooth impact, affecting the smoothness of the gear transmission.

　　2. It causes the seconds hand to misalign with the markers.

　　3. It increases the deformation and wear of the gears due to stress.

　　To resolve this issue, Rolex engineers filed a patent in 2009 and developed this special type of gear. Simply put, this special gear transforms each tooth into three spring-loaded metal leaves; their elasticity allows the gear to couple more effectively with other gears, thereby reducing gear backlash.

　　Although this brand-new gear appears simple, the manufacturing process requires a high level of precision. One can imagine how difficult it is to divide a tooth tip less than 0.5 millimetres wide into three uniform, thin leaves!

　　Following this innovation, the gear transmission in Daytona watches is smoother, and the chronograph accuracy is improved. When the seconds hand returns to zero, it aligns more precisely with the markers. Furthermore, the overall durability of the movement is enhanced.

　　Rolex has fully implemented this small change across its Daytona models, and new Daytona watches now use these new gears. Even for older Daytona models, if they are sent to a Rolex service centre for maintenance, they will be updated free of charge. Of course, Rolex will not officially tell you this...

　　The internal structure of the bidirectional rotating bezel on Rolex GMT models operates via a spring and the gears on the inner side of the bezel.

　　Older GMT models used this structure, the drawback of which was that when rotating the bezel, all stress points were concentrated in the top right corner, resulting in unstable torque and poor tactile feel. The new Rolex GMT, however, has innovated the internal design of the rotating bezel without altering its appearance.

　　By incorporating a specially designed recessed bezel ring and a triangular spring, the original single stress point has been replaced by three points spaced at 120° intervals, ensuring even torque distribution and improved stability.

　　A classic refers to those enduring products that have gained widespread recognition. Any minor change could potentially overturn the recognition previously earned. However, this does not mean that a classic cannot change; those innovations hidden within the interior and tucked away in the details may be difficult for most people to notice. Yet, it is these subtle changes that create the 'extraordinary behind the simple'.

　　It perfectly matches the sentiment: you cannot quite say what makes it good, but you just feel that it is.

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