How are gold-plated watches? Do gold-plated watches fade?

　　Do gold-plated watches fade? This is what many people likegold watchthe biggest doubt among people. First of all, we need to understand what types of gold-plated watches exist. Gold plating is roughly divided into two major categories: homogeneous material gold plating (real gold) and heterogeneous material gold plating.

　　Homogeneous material gold plating refers to applying a gold layer to the surface of the case, plating a layer of real gold over other metals to improve the colour, brightness and texture of the case, making it identical to real gold. Homogeneous gold plating is further divided into two types: gold-plated and gold-filled watches. When the gold-plated layer exceeds 10 microns, it becomes a gold-filled watch, with the thickest gold-filled layer reaching 80 microns. Much like gold-plated watches, gold-filled watches also involve applying gold foil onto stainless steel or other metals, wrapping it around the base material, and then hammering it densely so that the textured contours match the base surface. Therefore, gold-filled layers are thicker and less prone to fading. Gold-filled watches were an early physical bonding method of protective decoration for watch cases; the production process is extremely complex, and they are now basically obsolete with very few models available. Heterogeneous material gold plating refers to using other materials or technologies to apply a gold-coloured coating to the case surface, with the aim of achieving a gold-coloured appearance through inexpensive means.

Rolex Datejust automatic mechanical gold watch 116238, full gold Datejust, exquisite workmanship

　　Meanwhile, low-priced gold-plated watches usually refer to those processed using chemical ion plating, based on the principle of PVD vacuum ion plating physical vapour deposition, with varying thicknesses. The common thickness is 3 microns, which generally lasts for about a year before wearing through, though 10 micron versions also exist at a higher cost. Typically, a gold-plated watch costing a few hundred yuan is 3 microns, featuring a thinner yet relatively durable plating layer, mostly used in mid-to-low-end watches. There is also an even cheaper yellow-plated watch that uses yellow zinc plating technology; after passivation, it yields a yellow zinc layer with good corrosion resistance. This process is simpler and also tends to peel off easily.

　　Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) coating technology is mainly divided into three categories: vacuum evaporation coating, vacuum sputtering coating and vacuum ion plating. Corresponding to these three categories of PVD technology, the matching vacuum coating equipment includes vacuum evaporators, vacuum sputtering machines and vacuum ion platers. Over the past decade or so, vacuum ion plating technology has developed the fastest, becoming one of the most advanced surface treatment methods today. PVD coating as commonly referred to generally means vacuum ion plating, and a PVD coating machine generally refers to a vacuum ion plating machine.

Patek Philippe Complications series 5205R-001 yellow gold automatic mechanical watch, equipped with a custom-version automatic movement, exhibition case back design

　　The biggest problem with gold-plated watches is that they are not wear-resistant and are prone to fading, including semi-steel chrome-plated watches. Once the gold plating of a watch peels off or the case surface is scratched, there is no way to repair it. Gold-plated watches generally fade within 3-5 years, whereas gold-filled and thicker gold-plated watch layers can last for ten years or even longer. However, this mainly depends on the wearer's usage habits and environment, as sweat, moisture and frequent knocks will severely affect the lifespan of the plating.

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