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How much do you know about the mysteries of Rolex?

RolexPublished
When I was a child, there was a very popular sitcom called "I Love My Family". Every school holiday, it was a must-watch, accompanied by laughter. More than twenty years have passed, and those characters remain unsurpassed in my heart. This is a testament to experience and growing up together; those born after 70, after 80, and even after 90 will have some feelings about it. I still remember a line from Xiao Zhang (who played the nanny) after she made her fortune: "Wearing a Rolex watch, lying on a Simmons mattress". Let's take a look at why Rolex is so highly regarded.

  

  When I was a child, there was a very popular sitcom called "I Love My Family". Every school holiday, it was a must-watch, accompanied by laughter. More than twenty years have passed, and those characters remain unsurpassed in my heart. This is a testament to experience and growing up together; those born after 70, after 80, and even after 90 will have some feelings about it. I still remember a line from Xiao Zhang (who played the nanny) after she made her fortune: "Wearing aRolex watchesRolex, lying on a Simmons mattress". Let's take a look at why Rolex is so highly regarded.

  The mystery of Rolex

  Introducing the brand's history, I think it is very easy to get relevant information through online research. The founding time of the Rolex brand is relatively late among Swiss brands; founded in 1905, the Oyster model was finalised in 1926. Although it has undergone reforms, it has almost retained this style, which is very rare.

  Early Rolex date timepieces

  Here, I would like to focus on the English name ROLEX for those with a basic grasp of the language. You will notice that this brand name is derived from two words: ROLLING and EXCELLENT. What does it mean? Directly translated into Chinese, it signifies superb motion. This clever combination of words bestows a unique charm upon Rolex watches. The crown logo evolved from the five fingers of a hand, representing the significance of handcrafted manufacturing. Combined, they convey exquisite handcrafted operation—a brand ethos rarely seen among Swiss watchmakers.

  Practical series divisions: choosing the right Rolex for you

  Putting aside the convoluted collection divisions of other brands, Rolex watches can simply be understood as the Datejust plus land, sea, and air models. These constitute Rolex's four main selling pillars. The Cellini and Prince doctor's watches are special cases that can almost be overlooked, as you will rarely encounter these niche models when visiting a Rolex boutique.

  The land, sea, air, and Datejust models all feature Oyster cases, catering to different target audiences with distinct functions. The nautical segment includes the Submariner and Yacht-Master. These watches generally offer 300 metres of water resistance, three hands (hour, minute, and central seconds), and a date display. Commonly referred to in vernacular as the Submariner or water ghost, the most popular model currently is the green dial green Submariner 116610LV.

  The land category in Rolex comprises the Explorer and GMT-Master lines. They generally feature 100 metres of water resistance, four hands—adding a GMT hand to the standard three to display a second time zone—and a date display. I have heard experienced enthusiasts explain how to read three time zones on an Explorer. A strong seller at present is the model colloquially known as the Coke bezel 116710BLNR. The Explorer range also includes basic three-hand models without a date, which are positioned at a slightly lower tier. The Rolex Daytona represents the quintessential land timepiece, taking its name from Daytona Beach. These generally offer 100 metres of water resistance, six hands (including the standard three hands, a central chronograph seconds hand, and two chronograph sub-dials), and no date function. Currently, the black dial versions sell particularly well, whether in stainless steel or gold.

  Aviation watches are named Air-King, which belong to a slightly lower-end entry tier, featuring only three-hand functionality without a date display. In my view, a true pilot's watch strictly ought to feature a chronograph function, so this remains open to debate.

  Rolex's flagship product: the Day-Date

  The Datejust represents a large proportion of the Rolex lineup, making it well-suited for everyday business executives, both men and women. It is available in all-steel, two-tone (Rolesor), and solid gold configurations. Many business buyers avoid white gold Rolexes due to linguistic puns associated with bad fortune. Consequently, white gold Datejust models are relatively uncommon, though it ultimately depends on personal preference. There is also a model known as the Milgauss 116400GV, which features high anti-magnetic resistance and is ideal for engineers.

  I believe these collection divisions reflect a practical design ethos. They are tailored to suit various professions and lifestyles with clear objectives, making selection straightforward.

  The secret to value retention: the money printing press

  The Rolex manufacture is referred to in the industry as a money printing press. Every watch produced seems directly convertible into cash.

  Rolex excels at the concept of value retention. Globally, whenever a financial crisis erupts in a region, news reports emerge detailing how locals rush to buy Rolex watches rather than gold. A Rolex watch functions as liquid currency, demonstrating its power to retain value. We need not debate the literal truth of this notion here.

  Rolex's liquid currency: the Daytona

  My experience in the watch market over the past decade or so confirms that Rolex undeniably holds its value well. Value retention in watchmaking is not a new concept, so let me share a brief explanation of how value retention actually works.

  I have dealt with many customers purchasing Swiss watches costing a few thousand yuan who instinctively ask if the watch will hold its value. I can assure you that for such pieces, practical daily utility far outweighs investment value; please do not overemphasise value retention, as the concept does not apply here. Secondly, an asset that retains value must be treated with care—a factor many people overlook. If a watch shows severe wear and tear, put yourself in the shoes of the next buyer: would you choose it? Therefore, the primary principle of watch value retention lies in its physical condition. Timepieces in excellent condition naturally circulate much more easily.

  Rolex is no exception; immaculate condition ensures better value retention. Beyond this, Rolex exhibits a peculiar phenomenon. Older vintage models, especially those made prior to the 50s, retain value better than brand-new references and can even appreciate significantly. Examples include collector favourites like the big turtle, small turtle, and bubbleback. At a Geneva auction in Switzerland early this year, a stainless steel case 4113 Rolex chronograph fetched 1600 ten thousand RMB. Such occurrences are rare among Swiss brands, mainly because Rolex produces mass-market watches and seldom releases limited editions.

  Movement secrets: precision and reliability

  Meeting all changes with constancy sums up my understanding of Rolex movements. It is fair to say that Rolex movements rarely undergo major redesigns, and when changes do occur, it is a gradual process. In the 80s, the 3135 calibre was introduced and remained in service for over 20 years before the 3136 calibre emerged. Most people would assume this was a radical overhaul, whereas in reality, the change was as subtle as adjusting the shock absorber mechanism.

  This sets Rolex apart from many watchmakers globally; I can feel that every step Rolex takes is exceptionally measured. The movement itself is inherently outstanding, take the 3135 calibre for instance. It features bi-directional automatic winding, three-hand capability, and an instantaneous date-change mechanism equipped with a quickset lever for accurate, reliable operation. Currently, it stands as a calibre with impeccable quality, performance, and decorative finishing, boasting high inherent quality and robust durability. Movements are proven over time, and that statement fits Rolex best.

  The Rolex company

  The Rolex manufacture has always maintained a relatively secretive stance, granting minimal press access. At the annual Baselworld show in Switzerland, entry was restricted strictly to invitation holders while general visitors could only walk outside—a conservative approach. Only in recent years has access opened somewhat to domestic media. It is fair to say that Rolex possesses the capability to develop grand complications, yet you will notice that functions like tourbillons, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars are virtually absent from their product range. At most, an annual calendar appears on rare occasions. Why refrain from developing complex functions? The reason, I believe, is that Rolex prioritises reliability above all else. While adding complications highlights craftsmanship, it compromises the movement's long-term reliability. Thus, Rolex's steadfast focus on producing these core calibres clearly sets the brand apart.

  Rolex's overall operational philosophy is highly iconic. Mystique and conservatism lend a sense of wonder to the brand. Horology is an art form and a cultural experience that we continuously explore and seek to understand. What Rolex brings us is not merely a commodity or an objet d'art, but a rich culture derived from watchmaking. As the master artist Qi Baishi once said, those who imitate me perish; those who learn from me prosper. By learning, owning, and appreciating these timepieces, we experience life's progress and brilliance—which is precisely where the magic lies.

  Having said that, I would like to recommend a popular Rolex watch. Please add me on WeChat for further enquiries.

  Rolex Submariner mechanical watch 116610LV Green Submariner

劳力士的玄妙你知多少

  Review:

  ◆ As a representative masterpiece of diving watches, the Rolex Green Submariner is definitely a leader among diving timepieces. If you want a true diving watch, you might want to consider it;

  ◆ The dial size of 40MM is moderate, making it suitable for all wrist sizes. It can be paired with both formal and casual wear. Compared to the black or white of ordinary watches, the emerald green dial of the Rolex Green Submariner is a colour that is relatively difficult for most people to pull off, but it is also a very show-stopping colour, suitable for those who pursue individuality.

  ◆ The price remains consistent with the previous selling price of V6, and it is also equipped with A2836 and SA3135 movements, ensuring accurate timekeeping and bringing everyone a perfect timing experience.

  Summary: Rolex watches combine unparalleled precision performance with unique designs, creating exemplary works that embody the highest level of haute horlogerie. The Rolex watches I recommend are well-crafted with guaranteed quality. If you wish to purchase, please add me on WeChat for consultation.


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How the classic status of Rolex was forged

Submariner VS GMT-Master II: A comparison of classic Rolex timepieces


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