the "flaws" of tourbillons

“Rolex is endless, how good it is to be alive, no need to examine physical evidence”, these are the lyrics from Eason Chan's famous song "Tourbillon". it is just that the editor, in their current situation, has not yet truly felt that sentiment, after all, they have not yet reached“then suddenly autumn arrives, looking around, whatever should be there is already there” that kind of height! however, the editor still has some understanding of the great invention that is the“tourbillon”.

watch enthusiasts will certainly not be strangers to the tourbillon,1795year, the great watchmaking master Louis.Breguet invented a watch regulating device that combines the entire escapement assembly and can continuously rotate at a constant speed. the purpose of this is to minimise the effect of gravity on the“escapement system”in watches, thereby improving timekeeping accuracy. for a more detailed analysis, you can consult Baidu; the editor mainly wants to discuss the“drawbacks” of the tourbillon here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Tourbillon Series

    Following the invention of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet, famous watch brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, and Hublot have all produced their own tourbillon timepieces, growing increasingly complex as they strive for the honour of top watchmaker. However, as Kahlil Gibran put it, “We have already wandered so far that we have forgotten why we set out”. Indeed, when Mr Breguet originally invented the tourbillon mechanism, it was primarily intended for pocket watches. Unlike modern wristwatches, pocket watches are not worn on the wrist; they are typically tucked or placed into a waistcoat pocket. This creates a problem: because a pocket watch remains in the same position for extended periods, gravity causes the lower parts of the movement to bear greater pressure and friction. Over time, those movement components would wear out, thereby affecting timekeeping accuracy.

As the hands of the clock have ticked onwards, humanity has traversed200years, and pocket watches have gradually evolved into the wristwatches we wear today. Provided we are able-bodied, the watches on our wrists constantly change position throughout the day with the movement of our arms, rather than remaining “static” like a pocket watch. While these movements are not as regular as a tourbillon, there is no denying that they play a significant role in mitigating the effects of gravity on the movement. Consequently, the function of a tourbillon mechanism in a wristwatch is greatly diminished.

The tourbillon, initially conceived to improve timekeeping accuracy, now seems to have lost its original purpose. Most tourbillon watches produced by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Hublot feature open-worked or skeletonised designs, essentially to showcase their sophisticated craftsmanship. Yet what you can see, sunlight can “reach” too. Because of the open-worked design, the tourbillon components are virtually exposed to direct sunlight, with the consequence that the parts and lubricants heat up, disrupting the mechanism's operation and shortening its lifespan. You might argue that such an effect is negligible, but do not forget that many master watchmakers invented these complications simply hoping to enhance watch accuracy by1seconds or even less. They strive for perfection, and in a world of perfection, nothing is negligible. On this point, one cannot help but admire Patek Philippe, the titan of the watchmaking world, because their tourbillon mechanism cannot be seen through the crystal case back; they keep the mechanism “hidden”.


    Brands are well aware that exposing the tourbillon has its drawbacks, so why do they continue to do it? In truth, nowadays the primary role of a tourbillon is no longer time calibration, but aesthetic appeal. Brands continuously showcase their unique designs because exclusivity highlights their value. They pour effort into the finishing of the tourbillon components; admittedly, this is extremely time-consuming and demands high skill, resulting in an end product that is not only visually striking but also becomes a focal point for watch enthusiasts. Regardless, theoretically, a tourbillon should still exhibit smaller margins of error than a standard mechanical watch. However, with continuous advancements in modern watchmaking precision and manufacturing breakthroughs, standard luxury watches already achieve exceptionally small margins of error, rivalling the tourbillon. Consequently, the visual appeal and brand value of a tourbillon now far outweigh its practical utility.

Having said all that, this is by no means an attempt to disparage the tourbillon—who would dare deny the masterpiece of Master Breguet? It is simply that, with the passage of time, like many things, its purpose has shifted. Besides, when we buy a watch, isn't it often to make a good impression and project our status? In that regard, tourbillon watches still very much meet the demands of modern wearers.